《卡丹之家》:不止是一部時尚紀(jì)錄片
P·戴維·艾伯索爾和托德·休斯是兩位紀(jì)錄片制片人,也是皮爾·卡丹的擁躉,但他們從來沒有拍攝過一部有關(guān)這位傳奇設(shè)計(jì)師的紀(jì)錄片。
艾伯索爾告訴《財富》雜志:“我們收藏各種皮爾·卡丹的各種作品,我們的家具都是皮爾·卡丹(Pierre Cardin)品牌,我們收藏了各種有趣的商品,比如雙陸棋盤和玻璃器皿等。
上一部電影讓我們有機(jī)會前往巴黎,我們在那里偶然發(fā)現(xiàn)了皮爾·卡丹博物館。我們走進(jìn)館內(nèi),開始與店內(nèi)的工作人員談我們對這個品牌的癡迷,他說:‘哦,卡丹先生喜歡與真正懂他的作品的人見面?!覀兊姆磻?yīng)是:真的有卡丹先生這個人嗎?”
休斯大笑著補(bǔ)充說:“我們以為皮爾·卡丹只是一個虛構(gòu)的名字。就像貝蒂妙廚(Betty Crocker)一樣。
艾伯索爾說,結(jié)果他們發(fā)現(xiàn)“皮爾·卡丹真有其人,但他已經(jīng)95歲,而且每天仍堅(jiān)持工作,親自簽署每一張支票?!?/p>
如今距離這兩位電影制片人與皮爾·卡丹首次見面已經(jīng)過去了近三年,他們的紀(jì)錄片《卡丹之家》(House of Cardin)在電影節(jié)巡回展映中首映也已經(jīng)過去了一年時間。這部影片周五在線上上映,并開始有限的影院放映,在9月15日紐約時裝周期間提供點(diǎn)播。
影片中記錄了皮爾·卡丹從上世紀(jì)50年代在巴黎以設(shè)計(jì)高級女裝起家,如何一步步進(jìn)軍全球成衣市場,并最終開始工業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)。在影片中,現(xiàn)年98歲的皮爾·卡丹出現(xiàn)在了檔案片段和最新訪談當(dāng)中,另外他的家族內(nèi)部成員以及許多知名設(shè)計(jì)師和名人也在影片中出鏡,包括讓-保羅·高緹耶、愛麗絲-庫珀和娜奧米·坎貝爾等。
艾伯索爾表示:“我們之所以邀請[娜奧米],是因?yàn)樗俏覀冋J(rèn)識的唯一一位穿著卡丹復(fù)古設(shè)計(jì)走紅毯的名人。當(dāng)然,我們知道卡丹致力于時尚的多元化,而這也是娜奧米追求的偉大事業(yè)之一。”
在紀(jì)錄片的拍攝過程中,這兩位制片人逐漸覺得卡丹像是一位和藹可親的大叔。休斯說,當(dāng)卡丹旁觀他們工作的時候,他變得越來越放松。
第一天拍攝卡丹需要他在自己的餐廳Maxim’s里坐著接受采訪。艾伯索爾說,他的回答直截了當(dāng),大約半個小時就完成了拍攝。
艾伯索爾說:“然后他對我們說:‘你們想不想到樓上看看?’”然后我們可憐的攝影師只能帶著攝像機(jī)跟他上樓,因?yàn)閿z像需要跟拍他的一舉一動。他帶我們來到了Maxim’s餐廳樓上的新藝術(shù)主義博物館,向我們展示了他的私人收藏?!?/p>
他繼續(xù)說道:“與他一起工作會讓人不由自主地投入其中?!比说搅怂@個年齡會隨心所欲。我們可能到巴黎兩周無事可做,因?yàn)槲覀冎酪磺卸家此呐d致?!?/p>
雖然這部影片是一部時尚紀(jì)錄片,但休斯表示,它不止是一部時尚紀(jì)錄片。休斯形容卡丹的球形豪宅“非常宏偉”。
他說:“即使到現(xiàn)在你也很難告訴人們它到底是什么。它是為一個人的一生譜寫的贊歌;是對創(chuàng)造力的歌頌?!?/p>
對于這兩位制片人而言,這部影片作為保護(hù)皮爾·卡丹的傳承的一種方式,傳達(dá)出卡丹的作品背后的真實(shí)意圖同樣重要。
艾伯索爾說:“他每一項(xiàng)打破常規(guī)的成就或決定背后都是[政治行為]……他不止是為了賣衣服?!痹谂b品牌還沒有以多元化聞名的時候,卡丹就邀請日本人松本弘子作為他設(shè)計(jì)的服裝的模特;他也是第一位在文革后來到中國的歐洲設(shè)計(jì)師。
艾伯索爾補(bǔ)充說:“‘為什么這個世界要對某些人關(guān)閉,對另一部分人開放?’他對于時尚界也是同樣的觀點(diǎn)——為什么只有富裕的白人法國女子才能享有時尚和自我表達(dá)的權(quán)利?”
去年,皮爾·卡丹出席了這部影片在威尼斯電影節(jié)上的全球首映禮,全場觀眾起立為他歡呼。但現(xiàn)在這部影片將在一個奇怪的時刻,向大眾消費(fèi)者發(fā)行。新冠疫情的影響嚴(yán)重限制了影院放映(甚至有影院尚未開放),而且許多觀眾選擇通過點(diǎn)播的方式觀看新片。
兩位制片人表示,這部紀(jì)錄片在一個不同尋常的時期上映,也符合影片的氣質(zhì)。
艾伯索爾說:“感覺這就是皮爾·卡丹的風(fēng)格。我們希望這是在正確的時間出現(xiàn)的一部正確的電影?!保ㄘ敻恢形木W(wǎng))
《卡丹之家》已在部分影院上映,并于8月28日在虛擬影院上線。9月15日開始可以在線點(diǎn)播。
譯者:Biz
P·戴維·艾伯索爾和托德·休斯是兩位紀(jì)錄片制片人,也是皮爾·卡丹的擁躉,但他們從來沒有拍攝過一部有關(guān)這位傳奇設(shè)計(jì)師的紀(jì)錄片。
艾伯索爾告訴《財富》雜志:“我們收藏各種皮爾·卡丹的各種作品,我們的家具都是皮爾·卡丹(Pierre Cardin)品牌,我們收藏了各種有趣的商品,比如雙陸棋盤和玻璃器皿等。
上一部電影讓我們有機(jī)會前往巴黎,我們在那里偶然發(fā)現(xiàn)了皮爾·卡丹博物館。我們走進(jìn)館內(nèi),開始與店內(nèi)的工作人員談我們對這個品牌的癡迷,他說:‘哦,卡丹先生喜歡與真正懂他的作品的人見面?!覀兊姆磻?yīng)是:真的有卡丹先生這個人嗎?”
休斯大笑著補(bǔ)充說:“我們以為皮爾·卡丹只是一個虛構(gòu)的名字。就像貝蒂妙廚(Betty Crocker)一樣。
艾伯索爾說,結(jié)果他們發(fā)現(xiàn)“皮爾·卡丹真有其人,但他已經(jīng)95歲,而且每天仍堅(jiān)持工作,親自簽署每一張支票。”
如今距離這兩位電影制片人與皮爾·卡丹首次見面已經(jīng)過去了近三年,他們的紀(jì)錄片《卡丹之家》(House of Cardin)在電影節(jié)巡回展映中首映也已經(jīng)過去了一年時間。這部影片周五在線上上映,并開始有限的影院放映,在9月15日紐約時裝周期間提供點(diǎn)播。
影片中記錄了皮爾·卡丹從上世紀(jì)50年代在巴黎以設(shè)計(jì)高級女裝起家,如何一步步進(jìn)軍全球成衣市場,并最終開始工業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)。在影片中,現(xiàn)年98歲的皮爾·卡丹出現(xiàn)在了檔案片段和最新訪談當(dāng)中,另外他的家族內(nèi)部成員以及許多知名設(shè)計(jì)師和名人也在影片中出鏡,包括讓-保羅·高緹耶、愛麗絲-庫珀和娜奧米·坎貝爾等。
艾伯索爾表示:“我們之所以邀請[娜奧米],是因?yàn)樗俏覀冋J(rèn)識的唯一一位穿著卡丹復(fù)古設(shè)計(jì)走紅毯的名人。當(dāng)然,我們知道卡丹致力于時尚的多元化,而這也是娜奧米追求的偉大事業(yè)之一。”
在紀(jì)錄片的拍攝過程中,這兩位制片人逐漸覺得卡丹像是一位和藹可親的大叔。休斯說,當(dāng)卡丹旁觀他們工作的時候,他變得越來越放松。
第一天拍攝卡丹需要他在自己的餐廳Maxim’s里坐著接受采訪。艾伯索爾說,他的回答直截了當(dāng),大約半個小時就完成了拍攝。
艾伯索爾說:“然后他對我們說:‘你們想不想到樓上看看?’”然后我們可憐的攝影師只能帶著攝像機(jī)跟他上樓,因?yàn)閿z像需要跟拍他的一舉一動。他帶我們來到了Maxim’s餐廳樓上的新藝術(shù)主義博物館,向我們展示了他的私人收藏?!?/p>
他繼續(xù)說道:“與他一起工作會讓人不由自主地投入其中?!比说搅怂@個年齡會隨心所欲。我們可能到巴黎兩周無事可做,因?yàn)槲覀冎酪磺卸家此呐d致。”
雖然這部影片是一部時尚紀(jì)錄片,但休斯表示,它不止是一部時尚紀(jì)錄片。休斯形容卡丹的球形豪宅“非常宏偉”。
他說:“即使到現(xiàn)在你也很難告訴人們它到底是什么。它是為一個人的一生譜寫的贊歌;是對創(chuàng)造力的歌頌。”
對于這兩位制片人而言,這部影片作為保護(hù)皮爾·卡丹的傳承的一種方式,傳達(dá)出卡丹的作品背后的真實(shí)意圖同樣重要。
艾伯索爾說:“他每一項(xiàng)打破常規(guī)的成就或決定背后都是[政治行為]……他不止是為了賣衣服。”在女裝品牌還沒有以多元化聞名的時候,卡丹就邀請日本人松本弘子作為他設(shè)計(jì)的服裝的模特;他也是第一位在文革后來到中國的歐洲設(shè)計(jì)師。
艾伯索爾補(bǔ)充說:“‘為什么這個世界要對某些人關(guān)閉,對另一部分人開放?’他對于時尚界也是同樣的觀點(diǎn)——為什么只有富裕的白人法國女子才能享有時尚和自我表達(dá)的權(quán)利?”
去年,皮爾·卡丹出席了這部影片在威尼斯電影節(jié)上的全球首映禮,全場觀眾起立為他歡呼。但現(xiàn)在這部影片將在一個奇怪的時刻,向大眾消費(fèi)者發(fā)行。新冠疫情的影響嚴(yán)重限制了影院放映(甚至有影院尚未開放),而且許多觀眾選擇通過點(diǎn)播的方式觀看新片。
兩位制片人表示,這部紀(jì)錄片在一個不同尋常的時期上映,也符合影片的氣質(zhì)。
艾伯索爾說:“感覺這就是皮爾·卡丹的風(fēng)格。我們希望這是在正確的時間出現(xiàn)的一部正確的電影?!保ㄘ敻恢形木W(wǎng))
《卡丹之家》已在部分影院上映,并于8月28日在虛擬影院上線。9月15日開始可以在線點(diǎn)播。
譯者:Biz
P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes are documentary filmmakers and Pierre Cardin fans—but they never actually intended to make a documentary about the legendary designer.
“We collect Pierre Cardin, so we have furniture—we have all the sort of fun items like the backgammon set and glassware,” Ebersole tells Fortune.
“We were in Paris by chance with our last film, and we happened upon the Cardin museum. Then we went into the store and started talking to the guy who worked at the store about our obsession, and he said, ‘Oh, Mr. Cardin loves to meet people like you that really know all of his work.’ And we were like—there’s a Mr. Cardin?”
“We thought it was like one of those mythical names, right? Like Betty Crocker,” Hughes adds, laughing.
Instead, they realized “not only was there a man, but he was 95 years old, and he still goes to work every day, signs every check,” Ebersole says.
Now, about three years after the filmmakers first met Cardin, and about a year since it debuted on the festival circuit, their documentary House of Cardin is getting a virtual and limited theatrical release Friday, before it becomes available on demand on Sept. 15 to coincide with New York Fashion Week.
"House of Cardin" looks back at the career and designs of Pierre Cardin,
while also delving into his more recent efforts.
Courtesy of the Pierre Cardin Archives and The Ebersole Hughes Company
The documentary dives into Cardin’s history, from his origins as an haute couture designer in 1950s Paris to his expansion into ready-to-wear clothing for a global market and eventually, industrial design. The man himself, now 98, is featured via both archival footage and fresh interviews, alongside members of his inner circle, as well as a number of high-profile designers and celebrities, including Jean-Paul Gaultier, Alice Cooper, and Naomi Campbell.
“We asked [Naomi] because she was the only celebrity that we know of that wears vintage Cardin on the red carpet,” says Ebersole. “And of course we knew that he was so involved with diversifying the runway, and that’s one of her great causes.”
The filmmakers grew to view Cardin as something of a beloved uncle over the course of making the documentary. And as their subject watched them work, he grew increasingly relaxed, Hughes says.
The first day filming with Cardin involved a sit-down interview inside the restaurant Maxim’s, which is owned by the designer. His answers were so direct that the planned shoot was over in about half an hour, Ebersole says.
“Then he said to us, ‘Well, do you want to go upstairs?’ And our poor camera crew just had to grab cameras and follow, because when he goes, he goes,” Ebersole says. “He took us up to that Art Nouveau museum that was on the top floor of Maxim’s and walked us through his whole private collection.
“Working with him was very spontaneous,” he continues. “At his age, there are days when he’s up and days when he’s not. We’d come to Paris with two weeks free and just know, it’s going to be kind of at Mr. Cardin’s whim.”
Pierre Cardin in a still from "House of Cardin."
Courtesy of the Pierre Cardin Archives and The Ebersole Hughes Company
Though the film is a fashion documentary, it also isn’t one, Hughes says, calling the sphere Cardin inhabits “expansive.”
“Even now it’s hard to tell people what it is,” Hughes says. “It’s a celebration of a life; it’s a celebration of creativity.”
And it was important to the filmmakers to also convey what was beneath Cardin’s work, as a way of preserving his legacy.
“Underneath each achievement or decision to do something that was outside of the norm was a [political act]…It’s not just about selling clothes,” Ebersole says. Cardin brought Japanese model Hiroko Matsumoto on to model his clothes at a time when couture houses weren’t known for diversity; he was also the first European designer to go to post Cultural Revolution China.
“‘Why should the world be shut down for some people and open for other people?’ And same idea for diversifying the runway—why should fashion and self-expression only be for rich white Frenchwomen?” Ebersole adds.
Though Cardin was able to make it to the world premiere at the Venice Film Festival last year, where he received a standing ovation, the film is now coming out for mass consumption during strange times. Thanks to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic, theatrical releases are a lot more limited (if theaters are even open), and many audiences are catching new releases on demand.
The fact that the documentary is being released under slightly different circumstances than the norm is somewhat fitting, the filmmakers say.
“[It] feels so Pierre Cardin,” Ebersole says. “We’re hoping it’s the right movie for the right moment.”
House of Cardin hits select theaters and also has a virtual theatrical release on Aug. 28. It will be available on demand Sept. 15.