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“男神經(jīng)濟(jì)”爆火:有人帶貨發(fā)財(cái),有人拿大錘砸骨

“男神養(yǎng)成”系視頻在歐美火了,專門教男人如何修煉完美下頜線、如何增肌和護(hù)膚。

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高三那年,17歲的迪倫·萊瑟姆被女朋友甩了。此后他憤然決定對自己的外表進(jìn)行投資。從此,他每天都要泡在健身房里幾個(gè)小時(shí),在臉上敷自制的護(hù)膚面膜,還給自己燙了一個(gè)時(shí)興的發(fā)型?,F(xiàn)在他覺得自己帥氣多了,也自信多了。

不久后,萊瑟姆開始在TikTok上發(fā)布自己的型男心得,以激勵(lì)有過同樣遭遇的男孩們。他的視頻經(jīng)常以“這會(huì)讓你變丑”、“不要?dú)Я四愕钠つw”、“如何讓鼻子顯小”這種話術(shù)為題。他發(fā)布的這些“型男心得”在網(wǎng)上火得一塌糊涂,而且熱度一直維持到現(xiàn)在。到目前為止,他在TikTok上發(fā)步的短視頻已經(jīng)獲得了近9800萬個(gè)贊和10億次瀏覽。萊瑟姆現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)在帶貨自己的發(fā)膠品牌了。他表示,他每個(gè)月可以從平臺(tái)上獲得6位數(shù)的視頻播放和帶貨收入。因此他決定放棄大學(xué)學(xué)業(yè),轉(zhuǎn)而做一名全職網(wǎng)紅。

萊瑟姆的爆火,與歐美國家時(shí)下流行的一種“男神養(yǎng)成”(looksmaxxing)潮流有關(guān)。它大概是一種男版的容貌焦慮,要求男生們要通過嚴(yán)格的健身、護(hù)膚和護(hù)發(fā)程序,來讓自己顯得陽剛和有魅力。這類主播最底限的要求,是男生起碼把臉洗干凈。而有些極端的博主會(huì)讓男生定期捶打自己的下巴,以誘發(fā)輕微骨折,還有的甚至?xí)ㄗh男生整容或者服用類固醇。而在算法的推薦下,這些內(nèi)容很容易在網(wǎng)上得到大范圍傳播。

《財(cái)富》采訪的一些心理學(xué)家對這種現(xiàn)象表示了擔(dān)憂。他們認(rèn)為,這些網(wǎng)絡(luò)上的建議和批評會(huì)給青少年帶來很大的不良影響,使青少年對自己的容貌和吸引力產(chǎn)生負(fù)面評價(jià)。

紐約西奈山伊坎醫(yī)學(xué)院希爾德布蘭特實(shí)驗(yàn)室的創(chuàng)始人和負(fù)責(zé)人湯姆·希爾德布蘭特研究厭食癥已有20年了。他認(rèn)為:“從心理上看,這種負(fù)面評價(jià)會(huì)損害人的自我感。比如,我得到的負(fù)反饋越多,我就會(huì)越焦慮,然后我就會(huì)用更多的時(shí)間、精力甚至是金錢和資源,來放棄我當(dāng)前的身份,去追求另外一個(gè)身份'”。

萊瑟姆也表示,他發(fā)布的負(fù)面內(nèi)容的瀏覽量和討論熱度遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超過正面內(nèi)容。所以這位19歲的網(wǎng)紅現(xiàn)在依然會(huì)繼續(xù)貶低觀眾的長相,這樣才能在TikTok的網(wǎng)店里賣出更多產(chǎn)品。

不過他并不認(rèn)可批評者的意見,并表示人們應(yīng)該多聽聽他的建議。他表示,他視頻里的負(fù)面內(nèi)容與正面內(nèi)容是混雜在一起的?!叭藗儠?huì)被負(fù)面的東西所吸引,因?yàn)楹芏嗳硕既狈Π踩校阅闶紫鹊糜眠@種方式去吸引他們,然后才能幫助他們?!?/p>

這種負(fù)反饋循環(huán)也刺激了“男神經(jīng)濟(jì)”的繁榮。現(xiàn)在很多跟男顏養(yǎng)成相關(guān)的產(chǎn)品都賣得很火,比如有助于鍛煉下頜線條的口香糖,男性護(hù)理用品以及男裝等等。

還有一些移動(dòng)APP稱,他們可以給用戶的長相打分,或者評估他們符不符合“男神”的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。其中最火的一款A(yù)PP叫做UMAX,它采用了來自O(shè)penAI 的技術(shù),可以根據(jù)男性的氣質(zhì)、下頜輪廓和顴骨等參數(shù)給付費(fèi)用戶的顏值打分。該APP的創(chuàng)始人、CEO布萊克·安德森今年只有23歲。他表示,盡管這款A(yù)PP去年12月份才上線,但它的每月訂閱收入已經(jīng)達(dá)到了50萬美元。不過這個(gè)數(shù)字目前還無法單獨(dú)核實(shí)。

用戶需要在UMAX上自行上傳臉部照片,它的收費(fèi)是每周3.99美元。它每周都會(huì)用戶的顏值打分,滿分是100分。而且它還會(huì)向用戶提供“開始日常護(hù)膚”等小貼士來幫助用戶提高顏值分?jǐn)?shù)。雖然該APP稱,只要用戶推薦三位朋友注冊,就可以免首周費(fèi)用,但在《財(cái)富》的測試中,推薦好友注冊并未獲得它聲稱的免費(fèi)權(quán)益。

據(jù)安德森稱,UMAX的總下載量已超過700萬次,在蘋果應(yīng)用商店的生活方式排行榜上排在第36位,排名甚至高于Zillow Rentals和TaskRabbit等生活服務(wù)應(yīng)用。安德森還表示,該應(yīng)用90%的用戶是 16至45歲之間的男性。

他認(rèn)為,UMAX之所以受到歡迎,主要?dú)w功于它在社交媒體上的影響力。很多短視頻用戶發(fā)視頻談自己的“男神養(yǎng)成”之旅時(shí),經(jīng)常把UMAX的截圖放在視頻里。他表示,UMAX已經(jīng)在所有社交媒體平臺(tái)上獲得了超過10億次的展示。UMAX的競爭對手LooksMax AI顏值評分器也已躋身生活方式類應(yīng)用的前100名之列。(但其開發(fā)者并未回應(yīng)《財(cái)富》的采訪請求)。

安德森說表示:“總的來看,社交媒體是最偉大的廣告渠道?!彼M蛟煲粋€(gè)“體現(xiàn)男性自我提升”的品牌?!白顭衢T的短視頻就是養(yǎng)成系的短視頻?!乙郧伴L這樣,可有痤瘡,可能長得也不好看,或者也沒有打理自己。這是我現(xiàn)在的樣子!’而UMAX評分有助于量化這種變化。”

至有批評者認(rèn)為,UMAX可能會(huì)使用戶產(chǎn)生消極的自我認(rèn)知,安德森表示:“我們永遠(yuǎn)不希望容貌焦慮影響大家的心理健康……如果我們只是告訴大家百分百地愛自己,你沒有任何需要努力的地方,這也是一種危險(xiǎn)的心態(tài)……自我完善是極其重要的,它會(huì)在人的一生中給你帶來紅利?!?/p>

“男神經(jīng)濟(jì)”火爆的另一個(gè)原因,是TikTok網(wǎng)店的崛起。

“男神養(yǎng)成系”網(wǎng)紅萊瑟姆表示,對于他的護(hù)發(fā)品牌來說,TikTok網(wǎng)店是一個(gè)讓他“錢賺瘋了”的平臺(tái)?!耙?yàn)槟悻F(xiàn)在可以一邊看視頻,一邊直接購買產(chǎn)品?!彼钠放圃赥ikTok網(wǎng)店上的成功,是讓他決定放棄大學(xué)學(xué)業(yè),走專業(yè)網(wǎng)紅路線的一個(gè)重要原因。

TikTok并未回應(yīng)《財(cái)富》的置評請求。

由于TikTok的算法推送機(jī)制,希爾德布蘭特對這些負(fù)面內(nèi)容的影響深感憂慮。他認(rèn)為,這可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致人們對男性的外表產(chǎn)生畸形審美。這種現(xiàn)象在上世紀(jì)80年代施瓦辛格剛剛走紅的時(shí)候就出現(xiàn)了。隨著社交媒體的興起,這種畸形審美變得更加隱蔽化。人們可能會(huì)花大量時(shí)間在網(wǎng)上觀看或者消費(fèi)與美容和健身有關(guān)的內(nèi)容。當(dāng)然從表面看來,現(xiàn)在所有人每天都會(huì)刷上幾個(gè)小時(shí)的手機(jī)。

對于UMAX以及萊瑟姆的護(hù)發(fā)產(chǎn)品的火爆,希爾德布蘭特并未感到意外。因?yàn)椤澳猩窠?jīng)濟(jì)”利用了男性的容貌焦慮,而資本已經(jīng)靠刺激女性的容貌焦慮賺了幾萬億美元的化妝品和保健品了。“這些主播和產(chǎn)品的生產(chǎn)廠家發(fā)現(xiàn),男性和女性一樣容易受到負(fù)反饋的影響……只要你能讓人對自己的身份產(chǎn)生不安全感,他們就愿意為此一擲千金,來尋求解決方案?!?/p>

雖然TikTok已經(jīng)對網(wǎng)上商城里的減肥藥問題進(jìn)行了打擊,但心理學(xué)家表示,TikTok的網(wǎng)上商城里仍然有一些有問題的內(nèi)容存在。如果你在TikTok網(wǎng)上商城里搜索“l(fā)ooksmax”,就會(huì)出現(xiàn)一條信息寫著“你比你的體重更重要”。這條信息還配有一幅畫面,畫中是一個(gè)卡通小人抱著一顆愛心,以及一個(gè)點(diǎn)擊選項(xiàng),上面寫著:“如果你或你認(rèn)識(shí)的人有關(guān)于身材、包含或者運(yùn)動(dòng)方面的問題,請注意,你是可以獲得幫助的,你不是一個(gè)人在戰(zhàn)斗。”然后,用戶就可以通過鏈接,進(jìn)入TikTok自己的進(jìn)食障礙資源中心和一個(gè)域名為“nationaleatingdisorders.org”的網(wǎng)站。但如果你不點(diǎn)擊,而是滾動(dòng)頁面的話,這條信息就會(huì)消失。

但是Meta旗下的Instagram和Facebook、谷歌旗下的YouTube,以及Snapchat等熱門社交應(yīng)用則無此類推廣消息。

CNN和參議員理查德·布盧門撒爾都曾于2021年指出,Instagram存在向青少年宣傳與厭食癥有關(guān)的內(nèi)容的問題,它專門有一個(gè)頁面告訴用戶,出現(xiàn)這種問題后應(yīng)該找朋友尋求幫助。Meta公司的發(fā)言人拒絕就此事發(fā)表評論,不過他向《財(cái)富》強(qiáng)調(diào)了Meta在自殺、自殘和厭食等問題上的政策。

Meta表示,該公司表示會(huì)刪除平臺(tái)上“任何有關(guān)鼓勵(lì)自殺、自殘或厭食的內(nèi)容”,但它“允許人們討論這些話題,因?yàn)槲覀兿M覀兊姆?wù)成為人們交流經(jīng)驗(yàn)、提高對這些問題的認(rèn)識(shí)并且相互幫助的空間?!?/p>

Meta表示,它已經(jīng)在自殺、自殘、厭食以及身體形象相關(guān)的搜索結(jié)果頁中添加了彈出窗口,為用戶提供與相關(guān)組織聯(lián)系的建議和方法,但在與“男神養(yǎng)成”“男顏”相關(guān)的搜索中卻沒有這樣的警告?!敦?cái)富》在Instagram上搜索關(guān)鍵詞“l(fā)ooksmax”,發(fā)現(xiàn)一段視頻,視頻博主擁有好看的下巴,但他聲稱,他是通過用錘子敲打自己的臉部,才把下巴弄成這個(gè)樣子的(這種做法被稱為 “砸骨”)。這個(gè)博主還在視頻中向用戶做了示范,不過同時(shí)他也警告了這么做的危險(xiǎn)性。

Snapchat也不向用戶提供有關(guān)厭食癥的信息。Snapchat的發(fā)言人拒絕圍繞本文內(nèi)容發(fā)表評論。他建議《財(cái)富》查閱關(guān)于其算法推薦機(jī)制的的帖子。他還指出,Snapcha禁止宣傳鼓吹自殘、自殺和厭食的內(nèi)容。盡管有這樣的規(guī)定,《財(cái)富》還是在Snapchat的#looksmax 標(biāo)簽下發(fā)現(xiàn)了一些宣傳自殘和暴力的帖子。其中一段視頻以男神范兒的自拍開頭,后面出現(xiàn)“當(dāng)她說,我要跟我的新朋友開派對”時(shí),畫面突然變成了一連串的人拿著突擊步槍開火的鏡頭。該視頻的標(biāo)題是“我要去參加派對”。

針對YouTube上的“男神養(yǎng)成”相關(guān)內(nèi)容,YouTube的一位發(fā)言人告訴《財(cái)富》:“YouTube針對面向低齡和青少年觀眾制定了額外的保障機(jī)制,而且這些措施是在咨詢兒童發(fā)展專家后制定的”。該發(fā)言人還向我們分享了相關(guān)保障措施的鏈接,并表示YouTube會(huì)“限制重復(fù)推薦關(guān)于攀比身體特征、描述理想化的健身水平或者理想體重等相關(guān)內(nèi)容”,并指出,YouTube有相關(guān)政策來刪除“易被模仿的”厭食內(nèi)容。

上面提到的這幾家社交媒體公司,因其推薦算法和功能容易讓人上癮,進(jìn)而引發(fā)青少年心理健康危機(jī),而已經(jīng)受到了聯(lián)邦和州兩級政府的嚴(yán)格審查。這些平臺(tái)最被詬病的原因之一,就是它們?nèi)菀讓?dǎo)致用戶產(chǎn)生畸形審美,尤其是對年輕女性的身體產(chǎn)生畸形審美。

但是隨著“男神養(yǎng)成”的走紅,年輕男性用戶也很有可能受到畸形審美的負(fù)面影響。

塞拉·列維利是紐約市一位治療飲食失調(diào)和飲食紊亂問題的臨床心理學(xué)家。在她2007年剛開始執(zhí)業(yè)時(shí),她的患者大多是女性,包括年輕女孩。但是在過去10年里,隨著社交媒體的興起,她的病人已經(jīng)是男女各占一半。她表示:“對于男性來說,現(xiàn)在的社會(huì)變得越來越可怕了,就像長期以來的女性一樣。”

而一些全國性的報(bào)告也表明,隨著社交媒體的興起,美國男性患飲食失調(diào)癥的比例有所增加。

紐約心理學(xué)家莎拉·戴維斯長期研究兒童飲食失調(diào)問題。她注意到,一些患者在治療過程中,會(huì)進(jìn)行用舌頭舔上牙關(guān)的練習(xí),據(jù)他們說,這樣可以練出完美的下頜線。戴維斯把這個(gè)問題歸咎于社交媒體,因?yàn)樗牟∪恕霸絹碓侥贻p了”,甚至最小的病人只有9歲。

戴維斯表示:“我們都想被愛、被接受。所以人們會(huì)想,如果我長成某種樣子就能被愛、被接受,那么我就應(yīng)該砸錢干這件事?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:樸成奎

高三那年,17歲的迪倫·萊瑟姆被女朋友甩了。此后他憤然決定對自己的外表進(jìn)行投資。從此,他每天都要泡在健身房里幾個(gè)小時(shí),在臉上敷自制的護(hù)膚面膜,還給自己燙了一個(gè)時(shí)興的發(fā)型。現(xiàn)在他覺得自己帥氣多了,也自信多了。

不久后,萊瑟姆開始在TikTok上發(fā)布自己的型男心得,以激勵(lì)有過同樣遭遇的男孩們。他的視頻經(jīng)常以“這會(huì)讓你變丑”、“不要?dú)Я四愕钠つw”、“如何讓鼻子顯小”這種話術(shù)為題。他發(fā)布的這些“型男心得”在網(wǎng)上火得一塌糊涂,而且熱度一直維持到現(xiàn)在。到目前為止,他在TikTok上發(fā)步的短視頻已經(jīng)獲得了近9800萬個(gè)贊和10億次瀏覽。萊瑟姆現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)在帶貨自己的發(fā)膠品牌了。他表示,他每個(gè)月可以從平臺(tái)上獲得6位數(shù)的視頻播放和帶貨收入。因此他決定放棄大學(xué)學(xué)業(yè),轉(zhuǎn)而做一名全職網(wǎng)紅。

萊瑟姆的爆火,與歐美國家時(shí)下流行的一種“男神養(yǎng)成”(looksmaxxing)潮流有關(guān)。它大概是一種男版的容貌焦慮,要求男生們要通過嚴(yán)格的健身、護(hù)膚和護(hù)發(fā)程序,來讓自己顯得陽剛和有魅力。這類主播最底限的要求,是男生起碼把臉洗干凈。而有些極端的博主會(huì)讓男生定期捶打自己的下巴,以誘發(fā)輕微骨折,還有的甚至?xí)ㄗh男生整容或者服用類固醇。而在算法的推薦下,這些內(nèi)容很容易在網(wǎng)上得到大范圍傳播。

《財(cái)富》采訪的一些心理學(xué)家對這種現(xiàn)象表示了擔(dān)憂。他們認(rèn)為,這些網(wǎng)絡(luò)上的建議和批評會(huì)給青少年帶來很大的不良影響,使青少年對自己的容貌和吸引力產(chǎn)生負(fù)面評價(jià)。

紐約西奈山伊坎醫(yī)學(xué)院希爾德布蘭特實(shí)驗(yàn)室的創(chuàng)始人和負(fù)責(zé)人湯姆·希爾德布蘭特研究厭食癥已有20年了。他認(rèn)為:“從心理上看,這種負(fù)面評價(jià)會(huì)損害人的自我感。比如,我得到的負(fù)反饋越多,我就會(huì)越焦慮,然后我就會(huì)用更多的時(shí)間、精力甚至是金錢和資源,來放棄我當(dāng)前的身份,去追求另外一個(gè)身份'”。

萊瑟姆也表示,他發(fā)布的負(fù)面內(nèi)容的瀏覽量和討論熱度遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超過正面內(nèi)容。所以這位19歲的網(wǎng)紅現(xiàn)在依然會(huì)繼續(xù)貶低觀眾的長相,這樣才能在TikTok的網(wǎng)店里賣出更多產(chǎn)品。

不過他并不認(rèn)可批評者的意見,并表示人們應(yīng)該多聽聽他的建議。他表示,他視頻里的負(fù)面內(nèi)容與正面內(nèi)容是混雜在一起的?!叭藗儠?huì)被負(fù)面的東西所吸引,因?yàn)楹芏嗳硕既狈Π踩?,所以你首先得用這種方式去吸引他們,然后才能幫助他們?!?/p>

這種負(fù)反饋循環(huán)也刺激了“男神經(jīng)濟(jì)”的繁榮。現(xiàn)在很多跟男顏養(yǎng)成相關(guān)的產(chǎn)品都賣得很火,比如有助于鍛煉下頜線條的口香糖,男性護(hù)理用品以及男裝等等。

還有一些移動(dòng)APP稱,他們可以給用戶的長相打分,或者評估他們符不符合“男神”的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。其中最火的一款A(yù)PP叫做UMAX,它采用了來自O(shè)penAI 的技術(shù),可以根據(jù)男性的氣質(zhì)、下頜輪廓和顴骨等參數(shù)給付費(fèi)用戶的顏值打分。該APP的創(chuàng)始人、CEO布萊克·安德森今年只有23歲。他表示,盡管這款A(yù)PP去年12月份才上線,但它的每月訂閱收入已經(jīng)達(dá)到了50萬美元。不過這個(gè)數(shù)字目前還無法單獨(dú)核實(shí)。

用戶需要在UMAX上自行上傳臉部照片,它的收費(fèi)是每周3.99美元。它每周都會(huì)用戶的顏值打分,滿分是100分。而且它還會(huì)向用戶提供“開始日常護(hù)膚”等小貼士來幫助用戶提高顏值分?jǐn)?shù)。雖然該APP稱,只要用戶推薦三位朋友注冊,就可以免首周費(fèi)用,但在《財(cái)富》的測試中,推薦好友注冊并未獲得它聲稱的免費(fèi)權(quán)益。

據(jù)安德森稱,UMAX的總下載量已超過700萬次,在蘋果應(yīng)用商店的生活方式排行榜上排在第36位,排名甚至高于Zillow Rentals和TaskRabbit等生活服務(wù)應(yīng)用。安德森還表示,該應(yīng)用90%的用戶是 16至45歲之間的男性。

他認(rèn)為,UMAX之所以受到歡迎,主要?dú)w功于它在社交媒體上的影響力。很多短視頻用戶發(fā)視頻談自己的“男神養(yǎng)成”之旅時(shí),經(jīng)常把UMAX的截圖放在視頻里。他表示,UMAX已經(jīng)在所有社交媒體平臺(tái)上獲得了超過10億次的展示。UMAX的競爭對手LooksMax AI顏值評分器也已躋身生活方式類應(yīng)用的前100名之列。(但其開發(fā)者并未回應(yīng)《財(cái)富》的采訪請求)。

安德森說表示:“總的來看,社交媒體是最偉大的廣告渠道?!彼M蛟煲粋€(gè)“體現(xiàn)男性自我提升”的品牌?!白顭衢T的短視頻就是養(yǎng)成系的短視頻。‘我以前長這樣,可有痤瘡,可能長得也不好看,或者也沒有打理自己。這是我現(xiàn)在的樣子!’而UMAX評分有助于量化這種變化?!?/p>

至有批評者認(rèn)為,UMAX可能會(huì)使用戶產(chǎn)生消極的自我認(rèn)知,安德森表示:“我們永遠(yuǎn)不希望容貌焦慮影響大家的心理健康……如果我們只是告訴大家百分百地愛自己,你沒有任何需要努力的地方,這也是一種危險(xiǎn)的心態(tài)……自我完善是極其重要的,它會(huì)在人的一生中給你帶來紅利?!?/p>

“男神經(jīng)濟(jì)”火爆的另一個(gè)原因,是TikTok網(wǎng)店的崛起。

“男神養(yǎng)成系”網(wǎng)紅萊瑟姆表示,對于他的護(hù)發(fā)品牌來說,TikTok網(wǎng)店是一個(gè)讓他“錢賺瘋了”的平臺(tái)?!耙?yàn)槟悻F(xiàn)在可以一邊看視頻,一邊直接購買產(chǎn)品?!彼钠放圃赥ikTok網(wǎng)店上的成功,是讓他決定放棄大學(xué)學(xué)業(yè),走專業(yè)網(wǎng)紅路線的一個(gè)重要原因。

TikTok并未回應(yīng)《財(cái)富》的置評請求。

由于TikTok的算法推送機(jī)制,希爾德布蘭特對這些負(fù)面內(nèi)容的影響深感憂慮。他認(rèn)為,這可能會(huì)導(dǎo)致人們對男性的外表產(chǎn)生畸形審美。這種現(xiàn)象在上世紀(jì)80年代施瓦辛格剛剛走紅的時(shí)候就出現(xiàn)了。隨著社交媒體的興起,這種畸形審美變得更加隱蔽化。人們可能會(huì)花大量時(shí)間在網(wǎng)上觀看或者消費(fèi)與美容和健身有關(guān)的內(nèi)容。當(dāng)然從表面看來,現(xiàn)在所有人每天都會(huì)刷上幾個(gè)小時(shí)的手機(jī)。

對于UMAX以及萊瑟姆的護(hù)發(fā)產(chǎn)品的火爆,希爾德布蘭特并未感到意外。因?yàn)椤澳猩窠?jīng)濟(jì)”利用了男性的容貌焦慮,而資本已經(jīng)靠刺激女性的容貌焦慮賺了幾萬億美元的化妝品和保健品了。“這些主播和產(chǎn)品的生產(chǎn)廠家發(fā)現(xiàn),男性和女性一樣容易受到負(fù)反饋的影響……只要你能讓人對自己的身份產(chǎn)生不安全感,他們就愿意為此一擲千金,來尋求解決方案。”

雖然TikTok已經(jīng)對網(wǎng)上商城里的減肥藥問題進(jìn)行了打擊,但心理學(xué)家表示,TikTok的網(wǎng)上商城里仍然有一些有問題的內(nèi)容存在。如果你在TikTok網(wǎng)上商城里搜索“l(fā)ooksmax”,就會(huì)出現(xiàn)一條信息寫著“你比你的體重更重要”。這條信息還配有一幅畫面,畫中是一個(gè)卡通小人抱著一顆愛心,以及一個(gè)點(diǎn)擊選項(xiàng),上面寫著:“如果你或你認(rèn)識(shí)的人有關(guān)于身材、包含或者運(yùn)動(dòng)方面的問題,請注意,你是可以獲得幫助的,你不是一個(gè)人在戰(zhàn)斗?!比缓螅脩艟涂梢酝ㄟ^鏈接,進(jìn)入TikTok自己的進(jìn)食障礙資源中心和一個(gè)域名為“nationaleatingdisorders.org”的網(wǎng)站。但如果你不點(diǎn)擊,而是滾動(dòng)頁面的話,這條信息就會(huì)消失。

但是Meta旗下的Instagram和Facebook、谷歌旗下的YouTube,以及Snapchat等熱門社交應(yīng)用則無此類推廣消息。

CNN和參議員理查德·布盧門撒爾都曾于2021年指出,Instagram存在向青少年宣傳與厭食癥有關(guān)的內(nèi)容的問題,它專門有一個(gè)頁面告訴用戶,出現(xiàn)這種問題后應(yīng)該找朋友尋求幫助。Meta公司的發(fā)言人拒絕就此事發(fā)表評論,不過他向《財(cái)富》強(qiáng)調(diào)了Meta在自殺、自殘和厭食等問題上的政策。

Meta表示,該公司表示會(huì)刪除平臺(tái)上“任何有關(guān)鼓勵(lì)自殺、自殘或厭食的內(nèi)容”,但它“允許人們討論這些話題,因?yàn)槲覀兿M覀兊姆?wù)成為人們交流經(jīng)驗(yàn)、提高對這些問題的認(rèn)識(shí)并且相互幫助的空間?!?/p>

Meta表示,它已經(jīng)在自殺、自殘、厭食以及身體形象相關(guān)的搜索結(jié)果頁中添加了彈出窗口,為用戶提供與相關(guān)組織聯(lián)系的建議和方法,但在與“男神養(yǎng)成”“男顏”相關(guān)的搜索中卻沒有這樣的警告。《財(cái)富》在Instagram上搜索關(guān)鍵詞“l(fā)ooksmax”,發(fā)現(xiàn)一段視頻,視頻博主擁有好看的下巴,但他聲稱,他是通過用錘子敲打自己的臉部,才把下巴弄成這個(gè)樣子的(這種做法被稱為 “砸骨”)。這個(gè)博主還在視頻中向用戶做了示范,不過同時(shí)他也警告了這么做的危險(xiǎn)性。

Snapchat也不向用戶提供有關(guān)厭食癥的信息。Snapchat的發(fā)言人拒絕圍繞本文內(nèi)容發(fā)表評論。他建議《財(cái)富》查閱關(guān)于其算法推薦機(jī)制的的帖子。他還指出,Snapcha禁止宣傳鼓吹自殘、自殺和厭食的內(nèi)容。盡管有這樣的規(guī)定,《財(cái)富》還是在Snapchat的#looksmax 標(biāo)簽下發(fā)現(xiàn)了一些宣傳自殘和暴力的帖子。其中一段視頻以男神范兒的自拍開頭,后面出現(xiàn)“當(dāng)她說,我要跟我的新朋友開派對”時(shí),畫面突然變成了一連串的人拿著突擊步槍開火的鏡頭。該視頻的標(biāo)題是“我要去參加派對”。

針對YouTube上的“男神養(yǎng)成”相關(guān)內(nèi)容,YouTube的一位發(fā)言人告訴《財(cái)富》:“YouTube針對面向低齡和青少年觀眾制定了額外的保障機(jī)制,而且這些措施是在咨詢兒童發(fā)展專家后制定的”。該發(fā)言人還向我們分享了相關(guān)保障措施的鏈接,并表示YouTube會(huì)“限制重復(fù)推薦關(guān)于攀比身體特征、描述理想化的健身水平或者理想體重等相關(guān)內(nèi)容”,并指出,YouTube有相關(guān)政策來刪除“易被模仿的”厭食內(nèi)容。

上面提到的這幾家社交媒體公司,因其推薦算法和功能容易讓人上癮,進(jìn)而引發(fā)青少年心理健康危機(jī),而已經(jīng)受到了聯(lián)邦和州兩級政府的嚴(yán)格審查。這些平臺(tái)最被詬病的原因之一,就是它們?nèi)菀讓?dǎo)致用戶產(chǎn)生畸形審美,尤其是對年輕女性的身體產(chǎn)生畸形審美。

但是隨著“男神養(yǎng)成”的走紅,年輕男性用戶也很有可能受到畸形審美的負(fù)面影響。

塞拉·列維利是紐約市一位治療飲食失調(diào)和飲食紊亂問題的臨床心理學(xué)家。在她2007年剛開始執(zhí)業(yè)時(shí),她的患者大多是女性,包括年輕女孩。但是在過去10年里,隨著社交媒體的興起,她的病人已經(jīng)是男女各占一半。她表示:“對于男性來說,現(xiàn)在的社會(huì)變得越來越可怕了,就像長期以來的女性一樣。”

而一些全國性的報(bào)告也表明,隨著社交媒體的興起,美國男性患飲食失調(diào)癥的比例有所增加。

紐約心理學(xué)家莎拉·戴維斯長期研究兒童飲食失調(diào)問題。她注意到,一些患者在治療過程中,會(huì)進(jìn)行用舌頭舔上牙關(guān)的練習(xí),據(jù)他們說,這樣可以練出完美的下頜線。戴維斯把這個(gè)問題歸咎于社交媒體,因?yàn)樗牟∪恕霸絹碓侥贻p了”,甚至最小的病人只有9歲。

戴維斯表示:“我們都想被愛、被接受。所以人們會(huì)想,如果我長成某種樣子就能被愛、被接受,那么我就應(yīng)該砸錢干這件事?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:樸成奎

After Dillon Latham’s girlfriend dumped him during their junior year of high school, the then-17-year-old decided to invest in his appearance. He began spending hours daily in the gym, applying homemade skincare concoctions to his face like beef tallow moisturizer, and permed his hair to give it a tousled mop look. He says he felt and looked better.

Soon, Latham started posting tips on TikTok to inspire teen boys in similar situations. His videos are captioned with language like “this is making you ugly,” “stop ruining your skin,” and “get a smaller nose.” The makeover advice went, and continues to go, viral. To date, his TikTok clips have nearly 98 million likes and 1 billion views across social media. Latham, who is now selling his own brand of hairspray, says he’s making six-figures in revenue monthly from sales and social media, leading him to skip college and be a full-time influencer.

Latham’s videos are part of a trend called “l(fā)ooksmaxxing” that capitalizes on mostly boys’ insecurities, and tells them they can become attractive and masculine by toning their faces and bodies via rigid fitness, skincare, and hair care routines. In its mildest form, looksmax social media creators tell teen boys to wash their faces; in its most extreme, they tell boys to regularly pummel their jaws to induce micro fractures, get surgery, and take steroids. Social media algorithms tend to amplify this content.

Psychologists interviewed by Fortune expressed concern about the trend. They assailed the potentially devastating effects of the online advice and criticism that makes those seeking it feel inadequate and unattractive.

“Psychologically, it’s essentially an erosion of the sense of self,” says Tom Hildebrandt, a clinical psychologist who has studied eating disorders for 20 years as the chief and founder of the Hildebrandt Laboratory at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, in New York City. “It’s like, ‘The more I get feedback that I’m not good enough, the more I consume it. And then, I trade my attention, my time and sometimes my money and resources to give up my current identity in pursuit of this other one.’”

Latham, too, says the negative content he posts attracts far more views and engagement than positive stuff. So the now 19-year-old continues to insult the appearances of his viewers, and in turn, sell more products, mostly via TikTok Shop.

He dismisses the critics, saying they should listen more closely to his advice. The negativity in his videos is mixed with positive messages, he argues. “People are really attracted to negative things because so many guys are insecure—so you pull them in with that in a way, and then try to help them.”

This negative feedback loop has also spurred a burgeoning looksmaxxing economy, including chewing gum meant to help with jaw exercises, personal care products, and clothing.

Meanwhile, a number of apps claim to evaluate the looks of users and their success in following the looksmaxxing message. The most popular app is UMAX – Become Hot. Powered partly by OpenAI’s technology, UMAX rates paying users’ faces on masculinity, their jawlines, and cheekbones, among other attributes. Though it launched in December, the app is already raking in about $500,000 in subscription revenue monthly, according to Blake Anderson, the app’s 23-year-old founder and CEO. The amount could not be independently verified.

UMAX, which relies on users uploading headshot photos, costs $3.99 weekly. It scores users’ faces each week on a scale up to 100, and gives tips like “start a skincare routine” to increase their scores. Though the app says users can forgo the first weekly fee if they refer three friends, this feature didn’t work in Fortune’s test of the app.

UMAX has over 7 million total downloads, according to Anderson, and climbed to number 36 in the Apple App Store’s Lifestyle chart, which ranks apps by downloads, app usage and velocity of downloads. It ranked higher than the apps of Zillow Rentals and handyman service TaskRabbit. Anderson says 90% of users are males aged 16 to 45.

He credits UMAX’s popularity to its social media presence, helped by users who often show screenshots of UMAX’s app as a backdrop in their own social media videos in which they discuss their looksmaxxing journeys. He says UMAX has garnered over 1 billion impressions across all social media platforms. A UMAX competitor, LooksMax AI – Face Style Rater, is also among the top 100 lifestyle apps. (Its developer did not respond to Fortune’s interview request.)

“Social media, as a whole, is the greatest advertising channel to exist,” says Anderson, who wants to build a brand that “embodies male self improvement.” “The videos that tend to do really well are glow up videos: ‘This is me before—maybe I had acne or wasn’t as good looking, wasn’t taking care of myself—and now, this is me after.’ UMAX scores help to quantify that change.’”

In response to critics who say that UMAX may contribute to users’ negative self-perception, Anderson says: “We never want somebody to feel insecure to the point that it causes anxiety or significantly impacts their mental health…If we just tell everyone to just love who you are 100% and there’s never anything that needs any work—I think that’s a dangerous mindset…self-improvement is extremely important and pays dividends over the course of one’s life.”

Another reason for the growth of the looksmaxxing economy is TikTok Shop.

Looksmax influencer Latham calls it an “insanely profitable” platform for his haircare brand because “you can literally just buy a product on the same screen that you watch the video.” He says the success of his brand on TikTok Shop is a reason he decided to forgo college to focus on his social media creator career.

TikTok did not respond to Fortune’s request for comment.

Mount Sinai’s Hildebrandt is deeply worried about the potentially devastating effects of negative content delivered through an algorithm, as he believes this could cause widespread and often-undetected male body dysmorphia. This phenomenon, he says, gained traction during Arnold Schwarzenegger’s muscular rise to fame in the 1980s. With the rise of social media, the problem has been supercharged and harder to detect. Now, the disorder is often characterized by people spending excessive time consuming and thinking about online beauty and wellness content. On the surface, it’s largely indistinguishable from today’s norm of people scrolling on their phones for hours on end.

Hildebrandt is unsurprised that UMAX’s app and Latham’s hair care products have caught on. He believes the looksmaxxing economy takes advantage of men’s insecurities using methods that have minted female-focused cosmetics and wellness brands trillions of dollars. “The producers of [looksmaxxing] content and products are figuring out that men are just as vulnerable as women to that negative feedback…if you make anyone feel insecure about their identities, they are willing to throw money after a solution for that.”

TikTok has cracked down on weight loss content, though psychologists say problematic content very much still exists. A search for “l(fā)ooksmax” on the platform returns a banner saying “you are more than your weight.” The message is accompanied by a cartoon character hugging a heart and an option to click on a message that says: “If you or someone you know has questions about body image, food, or exercise — it is important to know that help is out there and you are not alone.” Users can follow links to TikTok’s own eating disorder resource center and nationaleatingdisorders.org. But once users begin to scroll, the banner disappears.

Meta-owned Instagram and Facebook, Google’s YouTube, and Snapchat have no such warnings on looksmaxxing content.

Instagram, which CNN and Sen. Richard Blumenthal (D-Conn.) said in 2021 promoted eating disorder content to teens, has a page about eating disorders that focuses on how users should approach friends about the problem. Facebook has a similar page. A Meta spokesperson declined to comment for this story, but pointed Fortune to its policy on suicide, self-injury and eating disorders.

Though the company says it removes “any content that encourages suicide, self-injury or eating disorders,” it allows “people to discuss these topics because we want our services to be a space where people can share their experiences, raise awareness about these issues, and seek support from one another.”

Meta says that it has added popup on searches related to suicide, self-harm, eating disorders or body image issues that gives users tips and ways to connect with relevant organizations, but it has no such warning on looksmax-related searches. When Fortune searched for “l(fā)ooksmax” on Instagram, it found a video of a user with a chiseled jaw who claimed to have obtained it by hitting his face with a hammer (a practice known as “bone smashing”). The video shows users how to do it, while warning of its dangers.

Snapchat provides users with no information about eating disorders. A spokesperson for the platform declined to comment for this article, directing Fortune to its guidelines about the kinds of posts its algorithm recommends, noting the company prohibits the promotion of self-injury, suicide and disordered eating content. Despite the rules, under the #looksmax hashtag on Snapchat, Fortune found a number of posts that promote self-harm and violence. One video that begins with a selfie video of looksmaxxer is captioned “when she says I’m going to party with my new friends,” followed by a sequence of people firing assault rifles. A caption on the clip then said “me after pulling up to that party.”

In response to looksmaxxing content on YouTube, a spokesperson for the platform told Fortune: “YouTube has extra safeguards in place for videos recommended to teens and younger viewers, developed in consultation with child development experts.” The spokesperson, who share a link to the safeguards, says the company “l(fā)imits repeated recommendations of content that compares physical features and idealizes specific fitness levels or body weights over others,” noting it has policies to remove content about disordered eating behaviors that “can be easily imitated.”

Social media companies are already facing scrutiny from federal and state officials for allegedly causing a youth mental health crisis with their addictive algorithms and features. A key accusation in these lawsuits and initiatives is that social media platforms incite body dysmorphia in users, especially young females.

But looksmaxxing may be evidence that young male users are just as affected by body dysmorphia.

Sera Levelle, a clinical psychologist who treats eating disorders and disordered eating in New York City, says she now has an even split of male and female patients. When she started her practice in 2007, it was mostly women and girls. Levelle says that over the last 10 years—concurrent with the rise of social media—the gender makeup of her patients has reached parity. “Society is now getting equally horrible for men as it has been for women for a long time,” says Levelle.

Levelle’s anecdote is consistent with national reports that show that diagnosed male eating disorders have increased with social media’s rise.

Sarah Davis, also a psychologist in New York who is focused on children’s eating disorders, notes that a few patients have engaged in a looksmaxxing exercise during therapy sessions called mewing, a belief that touching one’s tongue to top of mouth through clenched teeth can spur a defined jawline. She blames social media as her patients get “younger and younger,” with the youngest being nine years old.

“We all want to be loved and accepted,” says Davis. “People think, ‘If I look a certain way, and I can throw money at that [to be loved and accepted,] then I’ll do it.”

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