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美國(guó)快餐太過昂貴,漢堡和薯?xiàng)l成“奢侈品”

SASHA ROGELBERG
2024-05-30

一項(xiàng)新調(diào)查發(fā)現(xiàn),消費(fèi)者認(rèn)為快餐是一種“”奢侈品”,原因是其價(jià)格過于高昂。

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圖片來源:KENA BETANCUR—VIEWPRESS/GETTY IMAGES

愛馬仕和Miu Miu讓路吧——最新款小眾奢侈品錢包是皺巴巴的紙袋,里面裝滿了漢堡和油膩的薯?xiàng)l。一份新報(bào)告發(fā)現(xiàn),絕大多數(shù)美國(guó)人如今都覺得快餐過于昂貴,稱之為“奢侈品”。

貸款平臺(tái)LendingTree在上周一發(fā)布的一項(xiàng)調(diào)查中發(fā)現(xiàn),在2000名美國(guó)成年人中,78%的人認(rèn)為快餐是奢侈品,原因是其價(jià)格過于高昂。該調(diào)查使用的數(shù)據(jù)來自QuestionPro(受ValuePenguin委托)。半數(shù)受訪者表示,捉襟見肘的財(cái)務(wù)狀況讓他們覺得快餐是一種奢侈品,超過六成的受訪者表示,由于價(jià)格上漲,他們減少了快餐的消費(fèi)。

LendingTree首席信貸分析師馬特·舒爾茨(Matt Schulz)通過電子郵件向《財(cái)富》雜志表示:“快餐往往不再是快捷、實(shí)惠的選擇。人們對(duì)得來速餐廳的價(jià)格感到震驚,這讓他們重新考慮吃快餐的頻率?!?/p>

受訪者在4月初參加了這項(xiàng)調(diào)查,與此同時(shí),加州針對(duì)快餐業(yè)工作者的最低時(shí)薪法(最低時(shí)薪為20美元)開始生效,導(dǎo)致Chipotle等連鎖店威脅要將菜單價(jià)格提高6%-7%。甚至在最低時(shí)薪法頒布之前,消費(fèi)者就已經(jīng)對(duì)麥當(dāng)勞(McDonald’s)18美元的巨無霸套餐表示不滿,并抨擊溫蒂漢堡(Wendy’s)在2月推出的“動(dòng)態(tài)定價(jià)”,即利用人工智能根據(jù)一天中特定時(shí)段的客流量改變菜單條目的價(jià)格。這家漢堡連鎖店在發(fā)布消息的第二天就改變了主意,稱自己沒有漲價(jià)計(jì)劃,只是提供折扣。

事實(shí)上,手頭拮據(jù)的消費(fèi)者最關(guān)心的就是價(jià)格激增,72%的受訪者表示,如果非營(yíng)業(yè)時(shí)間就餐意味著菜品價(jià)格便宜,他們會(huì)選擇在非營(yíng)業(yè)時(shí)間就餐。超過一半的受訪者表示,如果他們想要吃一頓便宜的快餐,現(xiàn)在會(huì)在家做飯。

食品和餐飲顧問、哥倫比亞商學(xué)院(Columbia Business School)兼職商學(xué)助理教授斯蒂芬·扎戈?duì)枺⊿tephen Zagor)向《財(cái)富》雜志表示,對(duì)快餐公司的消極態(tài)度是許多人的經(jīng)濟(jì)心態(tài)的延伸。盡管通脹降溫,但快餐價(jià)格仍在持續(xù)上漲,消費(fèi)者情緒指數(shù)也在下滑:5月,消費(fèi)者情緒指數(shù)降至六個(gè)月來的最低點(diǎn)。

扎戈?duì)栒f:“我們正處于通脹的心理周期,就像我們所處的通脹現(xiàn)實(shí)周期一樣?!?/p>

“他們傾聽消費(fèi)者的痛苦聲音”

扎戈?duì)栒f,對(duì)于那些因快餐價(jià)格狀況而感到沮喪的顧客來說,好消息即將到來。漢堡連鎖店感受到了做出改變的壓力。

他說:“他們傾聽消費(fèi)者的痛苦聲音,正在努力做出回應(yīng)——而且理應(yīng)如此?!?/p>

麥當(dāng)勞兩周前宣布,計(jì)劃推出5美元套餐,包括漢堡或雞肉三明治、薯?xiàng)l、四塊雞塊和一杯飲料。溫蒂漢堡也做出了類似的回應(yīng),推出了3美元的早餐套餐,包括早餐土豆,培根或香腸任選其一、雞蛋和奶酪英式松餅。

這些變化是在快餐連鎖店注意到顧客精挑細(xì)選導(dǎo)致銷售額下滑之后出現(xiàn)的。

麥當(dāng)勞首席執(zhí)行官克里斯·坎普欽斯基(Chris Kempczinski)本月在與投資者的電話會(huì)議上表示:“消費(fèi)者在消費(fèi)時(shí)肯定會(huì)非常挑剔。這可能在低收入消費(fèi)者中更為明顯,但重要的是要認(rèn)識(shí)到,所有收入群體都在追求價(jià)值。”

扎戈?duì)栒f,雖然麥當(dāng)勞只承諾在一個(gè)月內(nèi)提供5美元的套餐優(yōu)惠——加盟商要求公司投資這項(xiàng)業(yè)務(wù)——但其他促銷活動(dòng)很可能會(huì)持續(xù)下去,不過形式可能會(huì)有所不同,比如應(yīng)用程序獨(dú)享優(yōu)惠或數(shù)字訂單的廉價(jià)菜單插件。

他認(rèn)為,快餐公司面臨著讓顧客滿意的壓力,即使這最初會(huì)給投資者和利潤(rùn)帶來更大的提升。作為一個(gè)“以關(guān)系為基礎(chǔ)”的行業(yè),餐飲業(yè)仍然需要向食客承諾提供就餐體驗(yàn)回報(bào),即使這只是一次快捷的得來速交易。扎戈?duì)栒f,像麥當(dāng)勞這樣的連鎖店每天有超過7000萬的顧客,是人們生活的基石,他們有義務(wù)保持這種狀態(tài)。

“事實(shí)是,我們鐘愛麥當(dāng)勞這個(gè)美國(guó)品牌。這決定了我們是誰,是好是壞,是恨是愛,是健康還是不健康。這表明了我們是誰?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:中慧言-王芳

愛馬仕和Miu Miu讓路吧——最新款小眾奢侈品錢包是皺巴巴的紙袋,里面裝滿了漢堡和油膩的薯?xiàng)l。一份新報(bào)告發(fā)現(xiàn),絕大多數(shù)美國(guó)人如今都覺得快餐過于昂貴,稱之為“奢侈品”。

貸款平臺(tái)LendingTree在上周一發(fā)布的一項(xiàng)調(diào)查中發(fā)現(xiàn),在2000名美國(guó)成年人中,78%的人認(rèn)為快餐是奢侈品,原因是其價(jià)格過于高昂。該調(diào)查使用的數(shù)據(jù)來自QuestionPro(受ValuePenguin委托)。半數(shù)受訪者表示,捉襟見肘的財(cái)務(wù)狀況讓他們覺得快餐是一種奢侈品,超過六成的受訪者表示,由于價(jià)格上漲,他們減少了快餐的消費(fèi)。

LendingTree首席信貸分析師馬特·舒爾茨(Matt Schulz)通過電子郵件向《財(cái)富》雜志表示:“快餐往往不再是快捷、實(shí)惠的選擇。人們對(duì)得來速餐廳的價(jià)格感到震驚,這讓他們重新考慮吃快餐的頻率。”

受訪者在4月初參加了這項(xiàng)調(diào)查,與此同時(shí),加州針對(duì)快餐業(yè)工作者的最低時(shí)薪法(最低時(shí)薪為20美元)開始生效,導(dǎo)致Chipotle等連鎖店威脅要將菜單價(jià)格提高6%-7%。甚至在最低時(shí)薪法頒布之前,消費(fèi)者就已經(jīng)對(duì)麥當(dāng)勞(McDonald’s)18美元的巨無霸套餐表示不滿,并抨擊溫蒂漢堡(Wendy’s)在2月推出的“動(dòng)態(tài)定價(jià)”,即利用人工智能根據(jù)一天中特定時(shí)段的客流量改變菜單條目的價(jià)格。這家漢堡連鎖店在發(fā)布消息的第二天就改變了主意,稱自己沒有漲價(jià)計(jì)劃,只是提供折扣。

事實(shí)上,手頭拮據(jù)的消費(fèi)者最關(guān)心的就是價(jià)格激增,72%的受訪者表示,如果非營(yíng)業(yè)時(shí)間就餐意味著菜品價(jià)格便宜,他們會(huì)選擇在非營(yíng)業(yè)時(shí)間就餐。超過一半的受訪者表示,如果他們想要吃一頓便宜的快餐,現(xiàn)在會(huì)在家做飯。

食品和餐飲顧問、哥倫比亞商學(xué)院(Columbia Business School)兼職商學(xué)助理教授斯蒂芬·扎戈?duì)枺⊿tephen Zagor)向《財(cái)富》雜志表示,對(duì)快餐公司的消極態(tài)度是許多人的經(jīng)濟(jì)心態(tài)的延伸。盡管通脹降溫,但快餐價(jià)格仍在持續(xù)上漲,消費(fèi)者情緒指數(shù)也在下滑:5月,消費(fèi)者情緒指數(shù)降至六個(gè)月來的最低點(diǎn)。

扎戈?duì)栒f:“我們正處于通脹的心理周期,就像我們所處的通脹現(xiàn)實(shí)周期一樣?!?/p>

“他們傾聽消費(fèi)者的痛苦聲音”

扎戈?duì)栒f,對(duì)于那些因快餐價(jià)格狀況而感到沮喪的顧客來說,好消息即將到來。漢堡連鎖店感受到了做出改變的壓力。

他說:“他們傾聽消費(fèi)者的痛苦聲音,正在努力做出回應(yīng)——而且理應(yīng)如此。”

麥當(dāng)勞兩周前宣布,計(jì)劃推出5美元套餐,包括漢堡或雞肉三明治、薯?xiàng)l、四塊雞塊和一杯飲料。溫蒂漢堡也做出了類似的回應(yīng),推出了3美元的早餐套餐,包括早餐土豆,培根或香腸任選其一、雞蛋和奶酪英式松餅。

這些變化是在快餐連鎖店注意到顧客精挑細(xì)選導(dǎo)致銷售額下滑之后出現(xiàn)的。

麥當(dāng)勞首席執(zhí)行官克里斯·坎普欽斯基(Chris Kempczinski)本月在與投資者的電話會(huì)議上表示:“消費(fèi)者在消費(fèi)時(shí)肯定會(huì)非常挑剔。這可能在低收入消費(fèi)者中更為明顯,但重要的是要認(rèn)識(shí)到,所有收入群體都在追求價(jià)值。”

扎戈?duì)栒f,雖然麥當(dāng)勞只承諾在一個(gè)月內(nèi)提供5美元的套餐優(yōu)惠——加盟商要求公司投資這項(xiàng)業(yè)務(wù)——但其他促銷活動(dòng)很可能會(huì)持續(xù)下去,不過形式可能會(huì)有所不同,比如應(yīng)用程序獨(dú)享優(yōu)惠或數(shù)字訂單的廉價(jià)菜單插件。

他認(rèn)為,快餐公司面臨著讓顧客滿意的壓力,即使這最初會(huì)給投資者和利潤(rùn)帶來更大的提升。作為一個(gè)“以關(guān)系為基礎(chǔ)”的行業(yè),餐飲業(yè)仍然需要向食客承諾提供就餐體驗(yàn)回報(bào),即使這只是一次快捷的得來速交易。扎戈?duì)栒f,像麥當(dāng)勞這樣的連鎖店每天有超過7000萬的顧客,是人們生活的基石,他們有義務(wù)保持這種狀態(tài)。

“事實(shí)是,我們鐘愛麥當(dāng)勞這個(gè)美國(guó)品牌。這決定了我們是誰,是好是壞,是恨是愛,是健康還是不健康。這表明了我們是誰?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:中慧言-王芳

Move over, Hermès and Miu Miu—the newest luxury purse flying under the radar is a crinkled paper bag filled with burgers and greasy fries. The vast majority of Americans now find fast food way too expensive, dubbing it a “l(fā)uxury,” a new report found.

Of 2,000 American adults, 78% considered fast food a luxury because of its price tag, loan marketplace LendingTree found in a survey released Monday, using data from QuestionPro commissioned by ValuePenguin. Half of respondents said their own stretched financial situation made fast food feel like a luxury, and more than six in 10 said they had cut down on fast food because of rising prices.

“Fast food often isn’t this quick, cheap option anymore,” LendingTree chief credit analyst Matt Schulz told Fortune over email. “People are having sticker shock at the drive-thru, causing them to rethink how often they eat fast food.”

Respondents participated in the survey in early April—the same time California’s $20 minimum wage law for fast-food workers went into effect, causing chains like Chipotle to threaten 6%–7% increases in menu price. Even before the minimum wage law was enacted, consumers revolted against McDonald’s $18 Big Mac meal and blasted Wendy’s for its introduction of “dynamic pricing” in February, using AI to change menu item costs depending on the level of traffic during certain times of day. The burger chain backtracked the day after the announcement, saying it had no plans to raise prices, only provide discounts.

Indeed, pinched consumers are most concerned about surge pricing, with 72% of those surveyed saying they would dine during off-hours if it meant cheaper menu items. Over half of respondents said they now cook at home if they’re looking for a quick, cheap meal.

Stephen Zagor, food and restaurant consultant and adjunct assistant professor of business at the Columbia Business School, told Fortune that bad attitudes toward fast-food companies are an extension of the mentality so many have about the economy. As fast-food prices continue to rise even as inflation cools, consumer sentiment is dipping: In May, it reached its lowest point in six months.

“We’re in this inflationary mental cycle as much as we are an inflationary reality cycle,” Zagor said.

‘They hear the customers’ pain’

But there’s good news on the horizon for customers feeling dejected by the state of fast-food prices, Zagor said. Burger chains are feeling pressure to make changes.

“They hear the customers’ pain, and they’re trying to be responsive—as they well should be,” he said.

McDonald’s announced last week its plans to launch a $5 meal deal of a burger or chicken sandwich, fries, a four-piece nugget, and a drink. Wendy’s responded similarly, rolling out a $3 breakfast deal with breakfast potatoes and a choice of bacon or sausage, egg, and cheese English muffin.

The changes came after fast-food chains noticed sales dips driven by choosy customers.

“The consumer is certainly being very discriminating in how they spend their dollar,” McDonald’s CEO Chris Kempczinski said during a call with investors this month. “It may be more pronounced with lower-income consumers, but it’s important to recognize that all income cohorts are seeking value.”

While McDonald’s is only promising its $5 meal deal for a month—with franchisees asking the company to invest in the operation—additional promotions are likely to stick around, though likely in different forms, such as app-exclusive deals or cheap menu add-ons for digital orders, Zagor said.

Fast-food companies are under pressure to keep their customers happy, even if it is initially a bigger lift for investors and the bottom line, he argued. A “relationship-based” business, the restaurant industry still has to promise its diners a return on the dining experience, even if it’s just a quick drive-thru transaction. With over 70 million customers daily, chains like McDonald’s are a cornerstone of people’s lives, Zagor said, and they are under obligation to stay that way.

“The truth of the matter is, we love McDonald’s. It’s an American brand. It’s who we are—good or bad, hate it or love it, think it’s healthy or unhealthy. It’s who we are.”

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