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一位“特別的”CEO讓美妝巨頭扭虧為盈

PHIL WAHBA
2023-10-28

納比是一名法國人,而且是一個(gè)變性人,這在大企業(yè)的CEO中是十分罕見的。

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Coty公司CEO蘇伊·納比 圖片來源:COTY

作為一家美容業(yè)巨頭,Coty公司旗下雖然擁有Kylie Cosmetics 和CoverGirl等知名品牌,但近五年來仍未擺脫掙扎求生的狀態(tài),公司也走馬燈似的換了五任CEO,現(xiàn)任CEO蘇伊·納比也是該公司第一次從美容行業(yè)內(nèi)部選拔的CEO。她認(rèn)為,自己的從業(yè)背景有助于幫助Coty公司扭轉(zhuǎn)不利的財(cái)務(wù)狀況,進(jìn)而恢復(fù)盈利能力。

納比是一名法國人,而且是一個(gè)變性人,這在大企業(yè)的CEO中是十分罕見的。在納比接手時(shí),Coty已經(jīng)是一家債臺(tái)高筑、問題百出的公司了。它于2016年收購了寶潔公司的大部分美容業(yè)務(wù),導(dǎo)致它出現(xiàn)了“消化不良”的癥狀。另外它旗下的高端產(chǎn)品過少,使得盈利能力不足。而且它在中國市場也只是一個(gè)小角色,遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)不如歐萊雅和雅詩蘭黛等競爭對(duì)手。

Coty公司的前幾任CEO都來自食品和家用產(chǎn)品等消費(fèi)品行業(yè),因?yàn)橄M(fèi)品的高管是出了名的善于打造品牌。不過納比認(rèn)為,洗衣粉或殺蟲劑這種快消品相比,美容行業(yè)更關(guān)注的是消費(fèi)者的可支配收入,更關(guān)注的是外表的呈現(xiàn),而前幾任CEO并未意識(shí)到這些微妙的區(qū)別。 “直覺在我們這個(gè)行業(yè)是很重要的。我經(jīng)常說,直覺就是直觀的智慧?!?納比在阿姆斯特丹接受《財(cái)富》的遠(yuǎn)程采訪時(shí)表示:“我很注重細(xì)節(jié),比如我會(huì)要求看看包裝,它聞起來是什么味道的?你確定這個(gè)名字符合產(chǎn)品的定位嗎?而且我也喜歡觀察別人。”

作為Coty的CEO,她上臺(tái)伊始就采取了加快推出新品的戰(zhàn)略,同時(shí)積極為CoverGirl等老品牌尋找新市場,并且還授權(quán)巴寶莉(Burberry)等大型設(shè)計(jì)品牌面向中國市場推出更多產(chǎn)品。這些做法已經(jīng)初步取得了成效。2021年,Coty收購了金·卡戴珊旗下KKW Beauty(現(xiàn)更名為SKKN)公司20%的股份。而在此兩年之前,Coty還收購了其姐妹品牌Kylie Cosmetics的51%的股份。據(jù)稱卡戴珊姐妹現(xiàn)在都想從Coty公司回購各自的股份。納比拒絕直接就相關(guān)報(bào)道發(fā)表評(píng)論,不過她通過電子郵件向《財(cái)富》表示:“我們與這兩個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)都保持著很好而且很成功的關(guān)系。”

Coty公司最早是120年前成立于法國巴黎的一家香水制造商。在納比的帶領(lǐng)下,它的業(yè)務(wù)逐漸有了起色。上一財(cái)年該公司的收入增長了5%,達(dá)到55億美元。Coty在經(jīng)歷了長期虧損后,終于連續(xù)兩年實(shí)現(xiàn)盈利。它的債務(wù)負(fù)擔(dān)也有所下降,自從納比接手以來,公司股價(jià)已上漲近3倍。這些成績也使得納比榮登《財(cái)富》“2023年最具影響力商界女性排行榜”第87位。

為簡潔起見,以下采訪稿有刪節(jié)。

《財(cái)富》:在動(dòng)蕩的經(jīng)濟(jì)形勢下,美容行業(yè)的表現(xiàn)似乎總是好于其他消費(fèi)支出領(lǐng)域,為什么這個(gè)行業(yè)如此具有韌性?

首先是因?yàn)槊廊輹?huì)讓你看起來更好,讓你的感覺更好,美容事關(guān)你展現(xiàn)給全世界的這張臉。另外美容業(yè)之所以有較強(qiáng)的韌性,是因?yàn)樗瑫r(shí)關(guān)乎健康與美這兩件大事。美容的愉悅性和體驗(yàn)性是醫(yī)療保健行業(yè)所不具備的,所以可以說它處于兩個(gè)領(lǐng)域的最佳位置。

《財(cái)富》:在經(jīng)濟(jì)下行時(shí)期,美容產(chǎn)品往往賣得更好,因?yàn)檫@時(shí)美容產(chǎn)品成了老百姓相對(duì)負(fù)擔(dān)得起的一種奢侈品。目前消費(fèi)者的手頭都很拮據(jù),在當(dāng)前的環(huán)境下,他們?cè)诿廊莓a(chǎn)品上的消費(fèi)是升級(jí)了還是降級(jí)了?

人們只會(huì)花錢買他們認(rèn)為有效的產(chǎn)品,不管價(jià)格高低。不過現(xiàn)在的市場競爭空前激烈,你必須通過科學(xué)、通過講故事、通過卓越的效果,告訴人們?yōu)槭裁串a(chǎn)品值這個(gè)價(jià)格水平。同時(shí)消費(fèi)者也做好了花這筆錢的準(zhǔn)備,因?yàn)檫@確實(shí)是一種日?;纳莩奁?。

《財(cái)富》:多年以來,美容公司都喜歡用名人效應(yīng)來推銷香水——比如布蘭妮·斯皮爾斯聯(lián)名款等等。不過這只是將明星的名字印在香水瓶上,產(chǎn)品與這些名人實(shí)際上并沒有什么關(guān)系?,F(xiàn)在還是這種情況嗎?

我經(jīng)常說,人們可能會(huì)因?yàn)槟愕拿侄I你的產(chǎn)品一次,但只有認(rèn)可了你的品質(zhì),才會(huì)買你兩次以上。所以這兩者都是重要的。你需要消費(fèi)者的認(rèn)知,需要產(chǎn)品與流行的關(guān)聯(lián)性,需要消費(fèi)者的興奮度,但這只是其中的一部分,最終你的業(yè)務(wù)必須要能經(jīng)得起時(shí)間的檢驗(yàn)。

《財(cái)富》:很多人說Z世代的消費(fèi)者跟以前的消費(fèi)者不一樣,在美容領(lǐng)域也是如此嗎?

他們的核心需求與任何一代人都是相同的,他們想要高質(zhì)量的并且符合他們的個(gè)性表達(dá)的產(chǎn)品,如果說有不同之處的話,那就是他們與品牌的互動(dòng)方式。他們只想要進(jìn)行一次對(duì)話,而不是大規(guī)模的對(duì)話。他們希望品牌在使用的成份和材料上體現(xiàn)出包容性和可持續(xù)性。

《財(cái)富》:隨著眾多美容品牌的涌現(xiàn),Coty是否面臨著加快創(chuàng)新速度的壓力?

我們的新陳代謝速度確實(shí)比過去快了。同時(shí)我們也有很強(qiáng)的盈利能力,因?yàn)槲覀兊慕?jīng)典產(chǎn)品經(jīng)受住了時(shí)間的考驗(yàn)。我們的一些香水已經(jīng)在美容行業(yè)擁有70年的歷史,這些產(chǎn)品也將為我們的創(chuàng)新提供資本。而且我們?cè)诨瘖y品領(lǐng)域也有創(chuàng)新,化妝被人們當(dāng)成一種娛樂,這六個(gè)月大家可能都會(huì)去買亮色的口紅,過了六個(gè)月大家又都去買暗色的口紅。所以你必須跟上流行的腳步,同時(shí)也要打造自己的“搖錢樹”產(chǎn)品。

《財(cái)富》:你是2020年9月當(dāng)上CEO的,也是Coty公司五年里的第5個(gè)CEO,而且你當(dāng)時(shí)還面臨疫情的威脅。你是如何穩(wěn)定軍心,幫助他們擺脫危機(jī)感的?

我做的第一件事就是召集全體員工開會(huì)。我沒有向他們?cè)S諾任何事,只是跟他們探討了美容。我想向他們展示的是,我了解這個(gè)行業(yè),了解成功的法則,同時(shí)我也要向他們解釋,品牌和產(chǎn)品是需要有相當(dāng)大的獨(dú)特性的。因?yàn)樵谶@個(gè)到處千篇一律的時(shí)代里,特異性才是美的。我解釋了我對(duì)美容的熱情。大家的反饋非常好,因?yàn)檫@是CEO第一次沒有跟他們談財(cái)務(wù)損益問題,談我們下周或者下個(gè)季度該做什么,而是談愿景、談激情,談直覺對(duì)業(yè)務(wù)的重要性。

《財(cái)富》:你也是長期以來,Coty公司第一位來自美容行業(yè)而非快消行業(yè)的CEO。這個(gè)背景對(duì)你有何幫助?

當(dāng)你對(duì)美容充滿激情,并且理解了美容時(shí),你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn),成敗的差距就在一線間,而很多行業(yè)以外的人是不理解這種微妙的差距的。還有一件事從二三十年前起就對(duì)我影響很大,那就是我關(guān)注那些最微小的細(xì)節(jié),而我們的業(yè)務(wù)最注重細(xì)節(jié)。我就像一臺(tái)攝像機(jī)一樣觀察著周圍的人。

《財(cái)富》:你的一大目標(biāo)是讓Coty擴(kuò)大在中國市場的份額,就像雅詩蘭黛和歐萊雅一樣。你是否擔(dān)心當(dāng)前中美關(guān)系會(huì)影響到這一目標(biāo)的實(shí)現(xiàn)?

業(yè)內(nèi)的任何一個(gè)人都知道,中國顯然將成為全球最大的美容產(chǎn)品市場。而且這是一個(gè)充斥著美容專家的國家,你面前不光有消費(fèi)者,還有大量美容專家。這些要求你必須加大在質(zhì)量、透明度和科研效率方面的投入。目前我們?cè)谥袊袌錾系囊?guī)模仍然很小,中國市場只占了我們凈收入的4%。但我們也有一個(gè)優(yōu)勢,那就是我們的香水業(yè)務(wù)正在中國市場蓬勃發(fā)展。即便中美關(guān)系有一定的影響,這種影響也是相當(dāng)有限的。

《財(cái)富》:你在大學(xué)里學(xué)的是環(huán)境工程,重點(diǎn)方向是水資源。這段教育經(jīng)歷對(duì)你的工作有何影響?

不管是在歐萊雅的時(shí)候,還是現(xiàn)在,這段教育經(jīng)歷對(duì)我都很有用。我與研發(fā)人員合作得很好,因?yàn)樗麄冎牢乙彩且粋€(gè)研發(fā)型人才。我們公司在皮膚健康防護(hù)領(lǐng)域擁有一些很有意思的知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán),這在紫外線越來越嚴(yán)重而且日益變暖的世界里是十分重要的。

《財(cái)富》:你是為數(shù)不多的變性人CEO之一。我們?nèi)绾尾拍茏尭嗟淖冃匀诉M(jìn)入高管層?

我經(jīng)常對(duì)人說:“評(píng)價(jià)一個(gè)人要看他做了什么,而不是看他是誰?!彼裕M蠹医o任何有想法、有激情、有創(chuàng)新意愿的人一個(gè)機(jī)會(huì)。這才是人們應(yīng)該關(guān)注的,其他都是私生活的范疇。另外身為變性人,我了解左右腦的區(qū)別,以及男女的思維方式差異,這也有助我創(chuàng)造一些世界上最成功的美容產(chǎn)品。

但如果有些人不能接受你的身份,他們可能不會(huì)花時(shí)間看你做了什么。不過我想,成功就是最好的打臉方式。

人人都喜歡成功。

關(guān)于納比:

納比生于阿爾及利亞,在法國長大并接受教育。

納比于2018年創(chuàng)辦了護(hù)膚品牌Orveda,在她擔(dān)任Coty公司首席執(zhí)行官,Coty于2021年收購了該品牌。

1993年至2013年,納比從歐萊雅公司的一個(gè)銷售代表一路升至總裁一職。在她領(lǐng)導(dǎo)蘭蔻品牌的5年間,人們認(rèn)為她對(duì)重振蘭蔻品牌發(fā)揮了至關(guān)重要的作用。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:樸成奎

Coty公司CEO蘇伊·納比

作為一家美容業(yè)巨頭,Coty公司旗下雖然擁有Kylie Cosmetics 和CoverGirl等知名品牌,但近五年來仍未擺脫掙扎求生的狀態(tài),公司也走馬燈似的換了五任CEO,現(xiàn)任CEO蘇伊·納比也是該公司第一次從美容行業(yè)內(nèi)部選拔的CEO。她認(rèn)為,自己的從業(yè)背景有助于幫助Coty公司扭轉(zhuǎn)不利的財(cái)務(wù)狀況,進(jìn)而恢復(fù)盈利能力。

納比是一名法國人,而且是一個(gè)變性人,這在大企業(yè)的CEO中是十分罕見的。在納比接手時(shí),Coty已經(jīng)是一家債臺(tái)高筑、問題百出的公司了。它于2016年收購了寶潔公司的大部分美容業(yè)務(wù),導(dǎo)致它出現(xiàn)了“消化不良”的癥狀。另外它旗下的高端產(chǎn)品過少,使得盈利能力不足。而且它在中國市場也只是一個(gè)小角色,遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)不如歐萊雅和雅詩蘭黛等競爭對(duì)手。

Coty公司的前幾任CEO都來自食品和家用產(chǎn)品等消費(fèi)品行業(yè),因?yàn)橄M(fèi)品的高管是出了名的善于打造品牌。不過納比認(rèn)為,洗衣粉或殺蟲劑這種快消品相比,美容行業(yè)更關(guān)注的是消費(fèi)者的可支配收入,更關(guān)注的是外表的呈現(xiàn),而前幾任CEO并未意識(shí)到這些微妙的區(qū)別。 “直覺在我們這個(gè)行業(yè)是很重要的。我經(jīng)常說,直覺就是直觀的智慧?!?納比在阿姆斯特丹接受《財(cái)富》的遠(yuǎn)程采訪時(shí)表示:“我很注重細(xì)節(jié),比如我會(huì)要求看看包裝,它聞起來是什么味道的?你確定這個(gè)名字符合產(chǎn)品的定位嗎?而且我也喜歡觀察別人?!?/p>

作為Coty的CEO,她上臺(tái)伊始就采取了加快推出新品的戰(zhàn)略,同時(shí)積極為CoverGirl等老品牌尋找新市場,并且還授權(quán)巴寶莉(Burberry)等大型設(shè)計(jì)品牌面向中國市場推出更多產(chǎn)品。這些做法已經(jīng)初步取得了成效。2021年,Coty收購了金·卡戴珊旗下KKW Beauty(現(xiàn)更名為SKKN)公司20%的股份。而在此兩年之前,Coty還收購了其姐妹品牌Kylie Cosmetics的51%的股份。據(jù)稱卡戴珊姐妹現(xiàn)在都想從Coty公司回購各自的股份。納比拒絕直接就相關(guān)報(bào)道發(fā)表評(píng)論,不過她通過電子郵件向《財(cái)富》表示:“我們與這兩個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)都保持著很好而且很成功的關(guān)系?!?/p>

Coty公司最早是120年前成立于法國巴黎的一家香水制造商。在納比的帶領(lǐng)下,它的業(yè)務(wù)逐漸有了起色。上一財(cái)年該公司的收入增長了5%,達(dá)到55億美元。Coty在經(jīng)歷了長期虧損后,終于連續(xù)兩年實(shí)現(xiàn)盈利。它的債務(wù)負(fù)擔(dān)也有所下降,自從納比接手以來,公司股價(jià)已上漲近3倍。這些成績也使得納比榮登《財(cái)富》“2023年最具影響力商界女性排行榜”第87位。

為簡潔起見,以下采訪稿有刪節(jié)。

《財(cái)富》:在動(dòng)蕩的經(jīng)濟(jì)形勢下,美容行業(yè)的表現(xiàn)似乎總是好于其他消費(fèi)支出領(lǐng)域,為什么這個(gè)行業(yè)如此具有韌性?

首先是因?yàn)槊廊輹?huì)讓你看起來更好,讓你的感覺更好,美容事關(guān)你展現(xiàn)給全世界的這張臉。另外美容業(yè)之所以有較強(qiáng)的韌性,是因?yàn)樗瑫r(shí)關(guān)乎健康與美這兩件大事。美容的愉悅性和體驗(yàn)性是醫(yī)療保健行業(yè)所不具備的,所以可以說它處于兩個(gè)領(lǐng)域的最佳位置。

《財(cái)富》:在經(jīng)濟(jì)下行時(shí)期,美容產(chǎn)品往往賣得更好,因?yàn)檫@時(shí)美容產(chǎn)品成了老百姓相對(duì)負(fù)擔(dān)得起的一種奢侈品。目前消費(fèi)者的手頭都很拮據(jù),在當(dāng)前的環(huán)境下,他們?cè)诿廊莓a(chǎn)品上的消費(fèi)是升級(jí)了還是降級(jí)了?

人們只會(huì)花錢買他們認(rèn)為有效的產(chǎn)品,不管價(jià)格高低。不過現(xiàn)在的市場競爭空前激烈,你必須通過科學(xué)、通過講故事、通過卓越的效果,告訴人們?yōu)槭裁串a(chǎn)品值這個(gè)價(jià)格水平。同時(shí)消費(fèi)者也做好了花這筆錢的準(zhǔn)備,因?yàn)檫@確實(shí)是一種日?;纳莩奁?。

《財(cái)富》:多年以來,美容公司都喜歡用名人效應(yīng)來推銷香水——比如布蘭妮·斯皮爾斯聯(lián)名款等等。不過這只是將明星的名字印在香水瓶上,產(chǎn)品與這些名人實(shí)際上并沒有什么關(guān)系。現(xiàn)在還是這種情況嗎?

我經(jīng)常說,人們可能會(huì)因?yàn)槟愕拿侄I你的產(chǎn)品一次,但只有認(rèn)可了你的品質(zhì),才會(huì)買你兩次以上。所以這兩者都是重要的。你需要消費(fèi)者的認(rèn)知,需要產(chǎn)品與流行的關(guān)聯(lián)性,需要消費(fèi)者的興奮度,但這只是其中的一部分,最終你的業(yè)務(wù)必須要能經(jīng)得起時(shí)間的檢驗(yàn)。

《財(cái)富》:很多人說Z世代的消費(fèi)者跟以前的消費(fèi)者不一樣,在美容領(lǐng)域也是如此嗎?

他們的核心需求與任何一代人都是相同的,他們想要高質(zhì)量的并且符合他們的個(gè)性表達(dá)的產(chǎn)品,如果說有不同之處的話,那就是他們與品牌的互動(dòng)方式。他們只想要進(jìn)行一次對(duì)話,而不是大規(guī)模的對(duì)話。他們希望品牌在使用的成份和材料上體現(xiàn)出包容性和可持續(xù)性。

《財(cái)富》:隨著眾多美容品牌的涌現(xiàn),Coty是否面臨著加快創(chuàng)新速度的壓力?

我們的新陳代謝速度確實(shí)比過去快了。同時(shí)我們也有很強(qiáng)的盈利能力,因?yàn)槲覀兊慕?jīng)典產(chǎn)品經(jīng)受住了時(shí)間的考驗(yàn)。我們的一些香水已經(jīng)在美容行業(yè)擁有70年的歷史,這些產(chǎn)品也將為我們的創(chuàng)新提供資本。而且我們?cè)诨瘖y品領(lǐng)域也有創(chuàng)新,化妝被人們當(dāng)成一種娛樂,這六個(gè)月大家可能都會(huì)去買亮色的口紅,過了六個(gè)月大家又都去買暗色的口紅。所以你必須跟上流行的腳步,同時(shí)也要打造自己的“搖錢樹”產(chǎn)品。

《財(cái)富》:你是2020年9月當(dāng)上CEO的,也是Coty公司五年里的第5個(gè)CEO,而且你當(dāng)時(shí)還面臨疫情的威脅。你是如何穩(wěn)定軍心,幫助他們擺脫危機(jī)感的?

我做的第一件事就是召集全體員工開會(huì)。我沒有向他們?cè)S諾任何事,只是跟他們探討了美容。我想向他們展示的是,我了解這個(gè)行業(yè),了解成功的法則,同時(shí)我也要向他們解釋,品牌和產(chǎn)品是需要有相當(dāng)大的獨(dú)特性的。因?yàn)樵谶@個(gè)到處千篇一律的時(shí)代里,特異性才是美的。我解釋了我對(duì)美容的熱情。大家的反饋非常好,因?yàn)檫@是CEO第一次沒有跟他們談財(cái)務(wù)損益問題,談我們下周或者下個(gè)季度該做什么,而是談愿景、談激情,談直覺對(duì)業(yè)務(wù)的重要性。

《財(cái)富》:你也是長期以來,Coty公司第一位來自美容行業(yè)而非快消行業(yè)的CEO。這個(gè)背景對(duì)你有何幫助?

當(dāng)你對(duì)美容充滿激情,并且理解了美容時(shí),你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn),成敗的差距就在一線間,而很多行業(yè)以外的人是不理解這種微妙的差距的。還有一件事從二三十年前起就對(duì)我影響很大,那就是我關(guān)注那些最微小的細(xì)節(jié),而我們的業(yè)務(wù)最注重細(xì)節(jié)。我就像一臺(tái)攝像機(jī)一樣觀察著周圍的人。

《財(cái)富》:你的一大目標(biāo)是讓Coty擴(kuò)大在中國市場的份額,就像雅詩蘭黛和歐萊雅一樣。你是否擔(dān)心當(dāng)前中美關(guān)系會(huì)影響到這一目標(biāo)的實(shí)現(xiàn)?

業(yè)內(nèi)的任何一個(gè)人都知道,中國顯然將成為全球最大的美容產(chǎn)品市場。而且這是一個(gè)充斥著美容專家的國家,你面前不光有消費(fèi)者,還有大量美容專家。這些要求你必須加大在質(zhì)量、透明度和科研效率方面的投入。目前我們?cè)谥袊袌錾系囊?guī)模仍然很小,中國市場只占了我們凈收入的4%。但我們也有一個(gè)優(yōu)勢,那就是我們的香水業(yè)務(wù)正在中國市場蓬勃發(fā)展。即便中美關(guān)系有一定的影響,這種影響也是相當(dāng)有限的。

《財(cái)富》:你在大學(xué)里學(xué)的是環(huán)境工程,重點(diǎn)方向是水資源。這段教育經(jīng)歷對(duì)你的工作有何影響?

不管是在歐萊雅的時(shí)候,還是現(xiàn)在,這段教育經(jīng)歷對(duì)我都很有用。我與研發(fā)人員合作得很好,因?yàn)樗麄冎牢乙彩且粋€(gè)研發(fā)型人才。我們公司在皮膚健康防護(hù)領(lǐng)域擁有一些很有意思的知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán),這在紫外線越來越嚴(yán)重而且日益變暖的世界里是十分重要的。

《財(cái)富》:你是為數(shù)不多的變性人CEO之一。我們?nèi)绾尾拍茏尭嗟淖冃匀诉M(jìn)入高管層?

我經(jīng)常對(duì)人說:“評(píng)價(jià)一個(gè)人要看他做了什么,而不是看他是誰?!彼?,希望大家給任何有想法、有激情、有創(chuàng)新意愿的人一個(gè)機(jī)會(huì)。這才是人們應(yīng)該關(guān)注的,其他都是私生活的范疇。另外身為變性人,我了解左右腦的區(qū)別,以及男女的思維方式差異,這也有助我創(chuàng)造一些世界上最成功的美容產(chǎn)品。

但如果有些人不能接受你的身份,他們可能不會(huì)花時(shí)間看你做了什么。不過我想,成功就是最好的打臉方式。

人人都喜歡成功。

關(guān)于納比:

納比生于阿爾及利亞,在法國長大并接受教育。

納比于2018年創(chuàng)辦了護(hù)膚品牌Orveda,在她擔(dān)任Coty公司首席執(zhí)行官,Coty于2021年收購了該品牌。

1993年至2013年,納比從歐萊雅公司的一個(gè)銷售代表一路升至總裁一職。在她領(lǐng)導(dǎo)蘭蔻品牌的5年間,人們認(rèn)為她對(duì)重振蘭蔻品牌發(fā)揮了至關(guān)重要的作用。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:樸成奎

When Coty CEO Sue Nabi took the reins of the company behind Kylie Cosmetics and CoverGirl, she became the fifth CEO in five years at the struggling beauty giant. She was also the first in years to come from inside the beauty products industry, a background she credits with helping her halt Coty’s poor financial performance and return it to profitability.

Nabi is a French native and a rare transgender CEO at a large U.S. corporation. (There are no others on the Fortune 1000, but she has a peer in Martine Rothblatt, the founder and CEO of biotech company United Therapeutics.) When she became CEO, she inherited a debt-laden company riddled with problems: Coty was stretched too thin following its ill-advised acquisition in 2016 of most of Procter & Gamble’s beauty business. Moreover, the company had too small a roster of higher-end products, which typically boast better profit margins, and was a minor player in China, far behind competitors like L’Oréal and Estée Lauder.

The CEO’s predecessors had hailed from the world of consumer packaged goods like food and household products, an industry where executives are famed for brand-building. The beauty sector, however, is more about discretionary spending and physical appearance, versus the business behind, say, laundry detergent or bug spray, and previous chief executives missed out on the subtleties that define success and failure in the industry, Nabi says. “Intuition is important in our industry. I love to say that intuition is intelligence that takes a shortcut,” Nabi told Fortune from Amsterdam in a virtual interview. “I really get into the details. Show me the packaging. What does it smell like? Are you sure this is the right name for this kind of positioning? And I love to observe people.”

As Coty’s CEO, her early strategies to introduce new products faster, find new markets for old brands like CoverGirl, and license more products in China from big designers like Burberry seem to be working. She’s also turned to celebrity-owned brands. In 2021, Coty acquired a 20% stake in Kim Kardashian’s KKW Beauty (now called SKKN), two years after it took a 51% stake in sister Kylie Jenner’s brand. Both women are now reportedly seeking to buy back their respective stakes from Coty. Nabi declined to comment directly on the reports but told Fortune in an e-mail: “We have very well-established and highly successful relationships with both teams.”

Nabi’s turnaround of the nearly 120-year-old company founded in Paris as a fragrance maker is taking hold: Revenue rose 5% last fiscal year to $5.5 billion, and Coty has been profitable for two straight years after an extended period of losses. Its debt load has also fallen, and shares have nearly tripled since she took over. Those green shoots landed Nabi at No. 87 on Fortune’s 2023 Most Powerful Women in Business list.

This interview was edited and condensed for clarity.

Fortune: In a bumpy economy, beauty always seems to fare better than other consumer spending sectors. Why is the category so resilient?

It is resilient primarily because beauty makes you feel better in general and, therefore, look better, and beauty is the face you show to the world. It’s resilient because it’s in the sweet spot between health and looking better. Beauty has a playfulness and an experiential path that the health industry doesn’t, so it’s really the best of both worlds.

Beauty often thrives in down times because it becomes a comparatively affordable luxury, but consumers are pinched. Are they trading down or up in this environment?

People spend on products they believe will give them the results they’re looking for at whatever price levels. But the market is more competitive than ever, and you need to explain to people why they need to pay this pricing level through science, storytelling, superior performance, and so on. At the same time, they’re ready to do it because it is a daily luxury.

For years, beauty companies tapped celebrities like Britney Spears to launch fragrances. But that stalled as stars simply slapped their name on a perfume bottle without having anything to do with the product. Is that still the case?

I love to say that people might buy your product once because of your name, but they’ll only buy it two or more times because of the quality behind it. So it’s both. You need the consumer awareness, you need the relevancy, you need the excitement, but that’s just part of the story. The full story is about building a business that will stand the test of time.

We hear so much about how Gen Z shoppers are different. Does that hold in the beauty category?

The core things they look for are more or less the same as any older generation. They want high-quality products that deliver on their promises and speak to who they are in terms of individuality. Where there may be a difference is in how they interact with brands. They want to have one conversation versus mass conversations. They want to believe that a brand stands for inclusivity and sustainability regarding the ingredients and materials used.

With the proliferation of so many beauty brands, is there pressure on Coty to increase its pace of innovation?

Our metabolism is faster than in the past. But at the same time, our business is very profitable because we build iconic products that stand the test of time. Some of our fragrances have been in the beauty industry for up to seven decades, and such products will finance our innovation. There is a bit more newness in makeup. Makeup is where people like to play, so they will buy the latest lipstick when the effect they want is shiny, and then six months later, everything is about matte lip color. You need to follow the pace but also build cash cows.

When you became CEO in September 2020, you were the fifth in five years and had to manage through the pandemic, too. How did you go about reassuring the troops, helping them shake the sense of any crisis?

One of the first things I did was have a town hall with all employees. I did not promise them anything. What I did was talk to them about beauty. I wanted to show them that I know this industry and the rules to succeed while explaining how much brands and products need to be distinct because we live in an ocean of sameness. I explained how passionate I am about beauty. The feedback was incredible because this was the first time the CEO spoke to them not about the P&L, what we need to do next week, next quarter, and so on, but about a vision, a passion, and how intuition is essential in our business.

You were also the first Coty CEO in a long time to come from within the beauty industry rather than CPG [consumer packaged goods]. How did that background help?

When you are passionate about beauty and understand beauty, you can see how tiny the distance between success and failure is, and this is a level of nuance that many people from outside the industry don’t see. What’s also helped me a lot since I started 20 or 30 years ago is I go to the tiniest details, and our business is about details. I am like a camera that observes people around me.

One of your big goals is to make Coty a bigger player in China, like Estée Lauder and L’Oréal. Do you worry that U.S.-China tensions could affect that?

For everyone in this industry, China is clearly going to become one of, if not the biggest, beauty markets in the world. It’s a nation of beauty experts. You don’t have consumers in front of you; you have experts. And that pushes up the ante in terms of quality, transparency, and scientific efficiency. We are still small in China, where we get only 4% of our net revenues. There is an upside if we continue to grow there, and our fragrance category is booming in China. And if there are tensions, the downside is fairly limited.

You studied environmental engineering at university with a focus on water. How does that training still affect how you do your work?

It was hugely useful when I was at L’Oréal, but also today. I collaborate well with research and development people because they know I am an R&D person. In this company, we own some of the most interesting intellectual property in the area of [skin] health protection, which will be very important in a world that’s going to be sunnier and warmer.

You are one of a few transgender CEOs. How do we get more transgender people into C-suites?

I love saying to people, “Judge me on what I do rather than who I am.” So give a chance to anyone with ideas, passion, and willingness to create something new. That’s the only thing people should look at because the rest is private life. Understanding the left and right brains and how males and females think is also helpful in how I’ve been creating some of the most successful products worldwide.

But if some people aren’t open to who you are, they might not take the time to look at what you do. I suppose, though, that success is the best revenge.

Everyone loves success.

Get to know Nabi:

She was born in Algeria with the name Youcef (her middle initial “Y” refers to that name) and reared and educated in France.

Nabi founded the vegan luxury skin-care brand Orveda in 2018, which Coty bought in 2021 after she became CEO.

Nabi rose from sales representative to president of L’Oréal between 1993 and 2013. She’s credited with revitalizing Lanc?me during her five years leading the brand.

財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)所刊載內(nèi)容之知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)為財(cái)富媒體知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)有限公司及/或相關(guān)權(quán)利人專屬所有或持有。未經(jīng)許可,禁止進(jìn)行轉(zhuǎn)載、摘編、復(fù)制及建立鏡像等任何使用。
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