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遠(yuǎn)程辦公大行其道,這類服裝銷量飆升

Jennifer Alsever
2021-08-30

新冠疫情爆發(fā)后,休閑商務(wù)裝越來越受到青睞。

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在經(jīng)過一年半的遠(yuǎn)程工作后,一部分人回到了辦公室,但他們還沒有完全準(zhǔn)備好重返“穿得筆挺”的狀態(tài)。服裝公司也發(fā)現(xiàn)一種新品類的銷量不斷增長,即休閑商務(wù)裝,它很適合辦公環(huán)境,材料有彈性又柔軟。

消費(fèi)者都在購置新衣服,零售商和服裝品牌也在轉(zhuǎn)向滿足新的舒適需求。以西裝和商務(wù)裝聞名的諾德斯特龍(Nordstrom)報(bào)告稱,工作裝的在線搜索量增加了136%,而且專設(shè)了“舒適工作裝”類別,包括棉混紡裙子和泡泡紗連衣裙等。女士服裝公司M.M.LaFleur設(shè)計(jì)秋季系列時(shí)也充分考慮了柔軟性:“順滑、純素皮革緊身褲”和“輪廓鮮明又手感柔軟的套裝”。運(yùn)動(dòng)品牌露露樂蒙(Lululemon)和Athleta也將業(yè)務(wù)擴(kuò)展到工作服。

“人們都很討厭再像以前一樣穿得不舒服。”位于舊金山的公司Betabrand的首席執(zhí)行官克里斯?林德蘭說,他的公司制作50款“正裝瑜伽褲”,剪裁精致,柔軟又有彈性。他預(yù)計(jì),“重返辦公室”帶來的銷售額將對其收入5000萬美元的公司產(chǎn)生巨大影響,因?yàn)槿藗冊谫徺I工作服裝時(shí)會(huì)格外考慮舒適度。此外,根據(jù)市場研究公司NPD的近期調(diào)查,40%的女性和37%的男性表示,現(xiàn)在的體型與新冠疫情前也不一樣。

M.M.LaFleur推出的Woolf Jardigan。圖片來源:Courtesy of M.M.LaFleur

NPD的服裝分析師瑪麗亞?魯戈洛說,本來辦公室里穿休閑裝就越來越普遍,新冠疫情又加速了這一趨勢。根據(jù)NPD的調(diào)查,如今只有6%的員工愿意上班時(shí)穿著西服或定制服裝。而2019年有10%的人愿意。事實(shí)上,人們并不喜歡穿得太正式:只有47%的人說想念正式著裝,其中大多數(shù)都是年輕的千禧一代。NPD調(diào)查的女性里10位有7位表示,除了睡覺,其他時(shí)間也會(huì)穿著睡衣或拖鞋。

NPD的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,2020年美國服裝銷售額下降了19%,至1896億美元,但在新冠疫情期間,睡衣、運(yùn)動(dòng)服和運(yùn)動(dòng)褲的銷售額有所上升。與2019年同期相比,今年上半年運(yùn)動(dòng)裝仍然強(qiáng)勁增長了39%,服裝整體銷售有望超過新冠疫情前的數(shù)字,收入比2019年上半年多95億美元。上周梅西百貨(Macy's)和科爾士百貨(Kohl's)公布了二季度業(yè)績報(bào)告,銷售額分別比去年同期增長了58.7%和31.4%。

然而,受德爾塔變種病毒感染病例上升影響,亞馬遜(Amazon)、谷歌(Google)、Facebook和蘋果(Apple)等多家大公司推遲重新開放辦公室。零售商擔(dān)心,一些購物者可能暫停更新衣柜。

“情況不斷變化,什么時(shí)候返回辦公室還不確定。”魯戈洛說,“現(xiàn)在人們只想買去公司上班確定能夠穿的衣服。”

M.M.LaFleur的品牌經(jīng)理瑪麗亞?科斯塔表示,到目前為止,公司銷售額已經(jīng)接近2019年的水平。“我們推出了大量‘混搭’風(fēng)格,可以靈活適應(yīng)不同的環(huán)境。”她說,比如舒適的針織套衫、柔軟的跑步服、休閑針織連衣裙,還有所謂的“jardigan”(柔軟的針織夾克)。

林德蘭的公司Betabrand每周都讓消費(fèi)者投票選出最喜歡的瑜伽褲,再根據(jù)投票結(jié)果推出新款。他表示,公司正緊跟社交媒體上鐘愛混搭的趨勢。推特(Twitter)上拒絕穿不寬大或沒有彈性衣服的帖子里,出現(xiàn)了一個(gè)叫“硬褲子”的標(biāo)簽。有篇帖子甚至將普通褲子稱為“腿部監(jiān)獄”

“確實(shí)出現(xiàn)了(對正裝的)抵觸情緒?!绷值绿m說,“全世界都喜歡舒適?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:馮豐

審校:夏林

在經(jīng)過一年半的遠(yuǎn)程工作后,一部分人回到了辦公室,但他們還沒有完全準(zhǔn)備好重返“穿得筆挺”的狀態(tài)。服裝公司也發(fā)現(xiàn)一種新品類的銷量不斷增長,即休閑商務(wù)裝,它很適合辦公環(huán)境,材料有彈性又柔軟。

消費(fèi)者都在購置新衣服,零售商和服裝品牌也在轉(zhuǎn)向滿足新的舒適需求。以西裝和商務(wù)裝聞名的諾德斯特龍(Nordstrom)報(bào)告稱,工作裝的在線搜索量增加了136%,而且專設(shè)了“舒適工作裝”類別,包括棉混紡裙子和泡泡紗連衣裙等。女士服裝公司M.M.LaFleur設(shè)計(jì)秋季系列時(shí)也充分考慮了柔軟性:“順滑、純素皮革緊身褲”和“輪廓鮮明又手感柔軟的套裝”。運(yùn)動(dòng)品牌露露樂蒙(Lululemon)和Athleta也將業(yè)務(wù)擴(kuò)展到工作服。

“人們都很討厭再像以前一樣穿得不舒服。”位于舊金山的公司Betabrand的首席執(zhí)行官克里斯?林德蘭說,他的公司制作50款“正裝瑜伽褲”,剪裁精致,柔軟又有彈性。他預(yù)計(jì),“重返辦公室”帶來的銷售額將對其收入5000萬美元的公司產(chǎn)生巨大影響,因?yàn)槿藗冊谫徺I工作服裝時(shí)會(huì)格外考慮舒適度。此外,根據(jù)市場研究公司NPD的近期調(diào)查,40%的女性和37%的男性表示,現(xiàn)在的體型與新冠疫情前也不一樣。

NPD的服裝分析師瑪麗亞?魯戈洛說,本來辦公室里穿休閑裝就越來越普遍,新冠疫情又加速了這一趨勢。根據(jù)NPD的調(diào)查,如今只有6%的員工愿意上班時(shí)穿著西服或定制服裝。而2019年有10%的人愿意。事實(shí)上,人們并不喜歡穿得太正式:只有47%的人說想念正式著裝,其中大多數(shù)都是年輕的千禧一代。NPD調(diào)查的女性里10位有7位表示,除了睡覺,其他時(shí)間也會(huì)穿著睡衣或拖鞋。

NPD的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,2020年美國服裝銷售額下降了19%,至1896億美元,但在新冠疫情期間,睡衣、運(yùn)動(dòng)服和運(yùn)動(dòng)褲的銷售額有所上升。與2019年同期相比,今年上半年運(yùn)動(dòng)裝仍然強(qiáng)勁增長了39%,服裝整體銷售有望超過新冠疫情前的數(shù)字,收入比2019年上半年多95億美元。上周梅西百貨(Macy's)和科爾士百貨(Kohl's)公布了二季度業(yè)績報(bào)告,銷售額分別比去年同期增長了58.7%和31.4%。

然而,受德爾塔變種病毒感染病例上升影響,亞馬遜(Amazon)、谷歌(Google)、Facebook和蘋果(Apple)等多家大公司推遲重新開放辦公室。零售商擔(dān)心,一些購物者可能暫停更新衣柜。

“情況不斷變化,什么時(shí)候返回辦公室還不確定?!濒敻曷逭f,“現(xiàn)在人們只想買去公司上班確定能夠穿的衣服。”

M.M.LaFleur的品牌經(jīng)理瑪麗亞?科斯塔表示,到目前為止,公司銷售額已經(jīng)接近2019年的水平?!拔覀兺瞥隽舜罅俊齑睢L(fēng)格,可以靈活適應(yīng)不同的環(huán)境。”她說,比如舒適的針織套衫、柔軟的跑步服、休閑針織連衣裙,還有所謂的“jardigan”(柔軟的針織夾克)。

林德蘭的公司Betabrand每周都讓消費(fèi)者投票選出最喜歡的瑜伽褲,再根據(jù)投票結(jié)果推出新款。他表示,公司正緊跟社交媒體上鐘愛混搭的趨勢。推特(Twitter)上拒絕穿不寬大或沒有彈性衣服的帖子里,出現(xiàn)了一個(gè)叫“硬褲子”的標(biāo)簽。有篇帖子甚至將普通褲子稱為“腿部監(jiān)獄”

“確實(shí)出現(xiàn)了(對正裝的)抵觸情緒。”林德蘭說,“全世界都喜歡舒適。”(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:馮豐

審校:夏林

After a year and a half of working remotely, some are returning to the office, but they aren’t quite ready to return to “hard pants.” That has driven apparel companies to embrace a new and growing category: workleisure, office-appropriate clothes that are made with stretchy, soft materials.

Consumers are restocking their closets, and retailers and clothing brands are pivoting to meet the new demand for comfort. Nordstrom, known for its suits and business attire, reported a 136% increase in online searches for work clothes and has a category called “comfort work clothing” with cotton blend skirts and seersucker shift dresses. Women’s clothing company M.M.LaFleur designed its fall collection with softness in mind: “buttery, vegan-leather leggings,” and “suits that are sharp in silhouette but soft in touch.” And athletic brands Lululemon and Athleta have expanded into work attire.

“There’s a revulsion to having to dress uncomfortably again,” said Chris Lindland, CEO of Betabrand, a San Francisco company that makes 50 kinds of “dress-pant yoga pants” that are tailored but soft and stretchy. He’s anticipating “back to work” sales will be big for his $50 million company, as people reinvent their work wardrobes with comfort in mind. Plus, 40% of women and 37% of men say they’re a different size today than they were pre-pandemic, according to recent surveys by market research firm NPD.

Casual attire at the office was already becoming more prevalent, but the pandemic accelerated the trend, said Maria Rugolo, an NPD apparel analyst. Today, just 6% of employees expect to dress up at work, wearing suits or tailored clothing, according to NPD surveys. That’s down from 10% of people who said that in 2019. In fact, people don’t really miss dressing up: Only 47% of people say they miss it, and most of those people are younger millennials. Seven out of 10 women NPD surveyed said that they wore pajamas or slippers for other activities beyond sleep.

U. S. apparel sales plunged 19% in 2020 to $189.6 billion, though sales of pajamas, activewear, and sweatpants climbed during the pandemic, according to NPD. This year, active apparel is still going strong—up 39% compared with the first half of 2019, and overall apparel sales are on track to potentially beat pre-pandemic numbers, bringing in $9.5 billion more than in the first half of 2019. Both Macy’s and Kohl’s, which reported second-quarter earnings last week, saw big increases in sales over last year’s numbers—at 58.7% and 31.4%, respectively.

However, rising cases of COVID-19, driven by the Delta variant, have delayed offices reopening at many large companies, including Amazon, Google, Facebook, and Apple. And retailers worry that may persuade some shoppers to pause their wardrobe updates.

“Things keep evolving and changing, so there is uncertainty of when we’ll go back to work,” said Rugolo. “People want to be sure what they’re buying is what they’re going to wear.”

But so far, sales at M.M.LaFleur have edged far closer to the levels of 2019, said Maria Costa, M.M.LaFleur brand manager. “We invested heavily into ‘hybrid’ styles that can flex across different environments,” she said, such as comfortable knit pullovers, soft joggers, casual knit dresses, and “jardigans” (soft knit blazers).

Lindland, whose company, Betabrand, each week introduces new styles of its yoga pants for work as consumers vote for their favorites, said he’s following the hybrid-work sentiment on social media. On Twitter, the hashtag, #hardpants, is popping up in posts where people reject the idea of putting on clothes that aren’t forgiving or stretchy. One post referred to regular pants as “l(fā)eg prisons.”

“There really is a revolt,” said Lindland. “The world is comfortable.”

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