疫情重擊服裝業(yè)，卡戴珊家的網(wǎng)紅效應(yīng)也不靈了
駱杰峰（Jeff John Roberts）
2020-10-16
疫情時代，許多人將辦公室和外出時穿的衣服束之高閣，換上了汗衫拖鞋，這讓服裝制造商步履維艱。Stitch Fix、Good American等公司也面臨著同樣的挑戰(zhàn)，前者的業(yè)務(wù)是為顧客寄送造型師挑選的服飾，后者則是科勒?卡戴珊開設(shè)的女士牛仔服裝品牌。
在《財富》雜志“最具影響力的新一代女性”（Most Powerful Women Next Gen）峰會上，Stitch Fix的總裁伊麗莎白?斯波爾丁發(fā)表講話稱，新冠疫情致使公司“努力向休閑和運動休閑服飾轉(zhuǎn)型”，貼近大多數(shù)人的全新生活方式。
斯波爾丁承認，Stitch Fix境況不佳，今年6月無奈裁員1400人，不過公司目前正在逐步復(fù)蘇。她還表示，公司在8月的增長率達到了2017年上市以來的最高水平，如果不是供應(yīng)鏈中斷，公司近期本可以扭虧為盈。
與此同時，新冠疫情爆發(fā)重挫了Good American推出泳裝系列的雄心。不過，疫情也意外促進了Good American的市場銷售。女性開始把Good American牛仔褲稱為“隔離牛仔褲”，因為它的設(shè)計能夠適應(yīng)女性不斷變化的體型。
Good American的首席執(zhí)行官艾瑪?格雷德告訴網(wǎng)絡(luò)聽眾，公司必須擅長“轉(zhuǎn)向”，尤其要善于傾聽客戶不斷變化的喜好，才可以度過疫情的難關(guān)。
鮮花配送服務(wù)Farmgirl Flowers的首席執(zhí)行官克里斯蒂娜?斯特姆貝爾則指出，新冠疫情給個人帶來的影響尤其大，她不僅不得不讓數(shù)百名工人暫時停工，自己還患上了新冠肺炎，度過了艱難的六周。此番遭遇促使斯特姆貝爾為公司所有員工提供了每兩周一次的新冠病毒檢測。事實證明，這很昂貴，但她認為這是創(chuàng)造安全工作場所的必要措施。
也有從新冠疫情中獲益的首席執(zhí)行官：妮可?吉本斯的公司Clare為顧客提供房屋油漆訂購服務(wù)。疫情期間，隨著房屋DIY需求增長，Clare也獲益不少。不過與此同時，吉本斯也需要做出一些艱難的抉擇，例如在不確定因素過多的情況下，放棄租賃辦公室以節(jié)省資金。
吉本斯還談到了公司今年面臨的另一項重要挑戰(zhàn)：種族問題。作為一名黑人首席執(zhí)行官，吉本斯表示，許多公司只發(fā)布了一系列相同的聲明，而她在社交媒體上努力提供了不少資源和想法。（財富中文網(wǎng)）
譯者：錢功毅
疫情時代，許多人將辦公室和外出時穿的衣服束之高閣，換上了汗衫拖鞋，這讓服裝制造商步履維艱。Stitch Fix、Good American等公司也面臨著同樣的挑戰(zhàn)，前者的業(yè)務(wù)是為顧客寄送造型師挑選的服飾，后者則是科勒?卡戴珊開設(shè)的女士牛仔服裝品牌。
在《財富》雜志“最具影響力的新一代女性”（Most Powerful Women Next Gen）峰會上，Stitch Fix的總裁伊麗莎白?斯波爾丁發(fā)表講話稱，新冠疫情致使公司“努力向休閑和運動休閑服飾轉(zhuǎn)型”，貼近大多數(shù)人的全新生活方式。
斯波爾丁承認，Stitch Fix境況不佳，今年6月無奈裁員1400人，不過公司目前正在逐步復(fù)蘇。她還表示，公司在8月的增長率達到了2017年上市以來的最高水平，如果不是供應(yīng)鏈中斷，公司近期本可以扭虧為盈。
與此同時，新冠疫情爆發(fā)重挫了Good American推出泳裝系列的雄心。不過，疫情也意外促進了Good American的市場銷售。女性開始把Good American牛仔褲稱為“隔離牛仔褲”，因為它的設(shè)計能夠適應(yīng)女性不斷變化的體型。
Good American的首席執(zhí)行官艾瑪?格雷德告訴網(wǎng)絡(luò)聽眾，公司必須擅長“轉(zhuǎn)向”，尤其要善于傾聽客戶不斷變化的喜好，才可以度過疫情的難關(guān)。
鮮花配送服務(wù)Farmgirl Flowers的首席執(zhí)行官克里斯蒂娜?斯特姆貝爾則指出，新冠疫情給個人帶來的影響尤其大，她不僅不得不讓數(shù)百名工人暫時停工，自己還患上了新冠肺炎，度過了艱難的六周。此番遭遇促使斯特姆貝爾為公司所有員工提供了每兩周一次的新冠病毒檢測。事實證明，這很昂貴，但她認為這是創(chuàng)造安全工作場所的必要措施。
也有從新冠疫情中獲益的首席執(zhí)行官：妮可?吉本斯的公司Clare為顧客提供房屋油漆訂購服務(wù)。疫情期間，隨著房屋DIY需求增長，Clare也獲益不少。不過與此同時，吉本斯也需要做出一些艱難的抉擇，例如在不確定因素過多的情況下，放棄租賃辦公室以節(jié)省資金。
吉本斯還談到了公司今年面臨的另一項重要挑戰(zhàn)：種族問題。作為一名黑人首席執(zhí)行官，吉本斯表示，許多公司只發(fā)布了一系列相同的聲明，而她在社交媒體上努力提供了不少資源和想法。（財富中文網(wǎng)）
譯者：錢功毅
The pandemic era has been tough on clothing makers as many people trade in their office and going-out clothes for sweats and slippers. This challenge has extended to the likes of Stitch Fix, which sends outfits to customers' homes picked by a stylist, and Good American, a company backed by Khloe Kardashian that specializes in women's denim.
Speaking at Fortune's Most Powerful Women Next Gen summit, Stitch Fix president Elizabeth Spaulding said the pandemic has led the company to "lean hard into casual wear and athleisure" to reflect many people's new lifestyle.
Spaulding also acknowledged that Stitch Fix has faced hard times that required it to lay off 1,400 employees in June, but said the company is recovering. She said its recent earnings would have been positive but for supply chain disruptions, and that August saw Stitch Fix's highest rate of growth since the company went public in 2017.
Good American, meanwhile, saw the COVID outbreak put a major kink into its ambitions to launch a swimwear line. But the pandemic also brought an unexpected marketing boost as women began to refer to its denim pants—which are designed to adapt to women's changing bodies—as "quarantine jeans."
The company's CEO, Emma Grede, told the virtual audience that navigating the pandemic has required the retailer to be good at "pivoting" and, especially, to listen to its customers' changing preferences.
For Christina Stembel, the CEO of bouquet delivery service Farmgirl Flowers, the pandemic has been especially personal—not only did she have to furlough hundreds of workers, but she had to battle the disease herself over the course of six hard weeks. She has responded in part by providing biweekly COVID tests for all of the company's employees—a process that has proved expensive, but one she feels is essential to providing a safe workplace.
One CEO who saw a benefit from the pandemic was Nicole Gibbons, whose company Clare lets consumers order paint for their homes. While Clare has benefited from the uptick in DIY during the pandemic, Gibbons has also had to make tough choices, including giving up the company's office lease to preserve capital amid broad uncertainty.
Gibbons also addressed the other major challenge companies have faced this year: race. As a Black CEO, Gibbons said she has made an extra effort to provide resources and ideas on social media at a time when many companies have done little more than issue the same series of statements.
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