圣米格爾-德阿連德，曾是早年墨西哥獨立戰(zhàn)爭的關(guān)鍵地區(qū)，也曾是墨西哥繁榮的白銀貿(mào)易的中心。它坐落在海拔6000英尺的瓜納華托州中央高地，長久以來被譽為墨西哥王國的明珠，數(shù)十年來以其厚重的歷史、迷人的巴洛克/新古典主義殖民建筑和宜人的氣候，吸引著一批又一批的移民。如今，不斷涌現(xiàn)的出類拔萃的餐館和高檔酒店，在活躍的藝術(shù)風味和厚重的文化氣息的映襯下，越發(fā)富有魅力，吸引了新一代的參觀者們。

此處以方濟各會僧侶胡安·德·圣米格爾而得名，他是印第安人的捐贈者，而這座城市——自2008年始成為聯(lián)合國教科文組織指定的世界遺產(chǎn)城市——是1542年西班牙人發(fā)現(xiàn)瓜納華托后的第一個落腳點。墨西哥從西班牙統(tǒng)治下獨立的五年后，即1826年，城市名字中增加了“阿連德”幾個字，為了紀念本土人民的兒子、前皇家軍隊長官、后來成為革命中的英雄人物的伊那西奧·阿連德。1764年在阿連德的故居建起了一座高貴的磚石建筑，現(xiàn)在它成了一個靠近森繁葉茂的主廣場埃爾·賈丁的博物館。

A pivotal player in the early days of the Mexican War for Independence and one-time epicenter of the country’s brisk silver trade, San Miguel de Allende, perched 6,000 feet above sea level in the central highlands state of Guanajuato, has long enjoyed a reputation as one of Mexico’s crown jewels, luring streams of expats for decades with its storied history, enchanting Baroque/Neoclassical colonial architecture, and enviable climate. Now, a burgeoning array of exceptional eateries and top-tier hotels, coupled with its vibrant arts community and richly textured culture, are amplifying its ineffable allure for new generations of visitors.

Named for Franciscan monk Juan de San Miguel, a benefactor of the Indians, the city—a UNESCO World Heritage City since 2008—was the first Spanish settlement in Guanajuato upon its founding in 1542. “Allende” was added in 1826, five years after Mexico’s liberation from Spanish rule, to honor Ignacio Allende, a native son and former royal army officer who became a hero of the revolution. Allende’s birthplace, an elegant brick-and-limestone dwelling built in 1764, is now a house museum near El Jardín, the leafy main square.

圣米格爾那些沒有主人的殖民地寶藏仍然完好無損，這在一定程度上要歸功于其動蕩的歷史：作為西班牙統(tǒng)治下的墨西哥人口最多的城市之一，在20世紀初由于種種不幸?guī)缀跻蔀橐粋€幽靈鎮(zhèn)，銀礦石枯竭了，流感大爆發(fā)。如今，圣米格爾出了名的步行街——那些低矮的建筑歷經(jīng)歲月變成赭色、芥末色和朱紅色——數(shù)不勝數(shù)的畫廊和別致的精品店，其靚麗的店面和時尚的商品可以讓你愉快地徘徊數(shù)個小時，這座城市戲劇性地融合了過去與現(xiàn)在。

很自然的，正是藝術(shù)家們在一個世紀以前拯救了圣米格爾。威嚴的建筑和精美的光亮迷住了他們，于是他們聚居起來，創(chuàng)建藝術(shù)和文化機構(gòu)，比如埃斯庫埃拉藝術(shù)大學和阿連德研究所，兩者都是由芝加哥人斯特林·迪金森與人聯(lián)合創(chuàng)立的。從普林斯頓大學畢業(yè)后，他于1937年偶然到了這個城市，立即被它給迷住了，他騎著小驢走街串巷的樣子也成為了當?shù)厝耸煜さ囊坏里L景。在第二次世界大戰(zhàn)期間，他作了一些情報工作，此后他返回圣米格爾開始招募年輕的美國退伍軍人，依照《退伍軍人權(quán)利法案》到埃斯庫埃拉藝術(shù)大學學習，斯特林在這座城市的復興中一直扮演著至關(guān)重要的角色，直到1998年去世。今天，圣米格爾·德阿連德能成為一個國際藝術(shù)中心和愛冒險的美國人追捧的目的地，很大程度上要歸功于他。

San Miguel’s trove of colonial treasures have remained remarkably intact thanks in part to its tumultuous history: one of Mexico’s most populous cities under Spanish rule, it teetered on the brink of ghost-town status in the early 20th century due to a string of misfortunes, including the depletion of its silver ore and an influenza epidemic. These days, San Miguel’s eminently strollable streets—most chockablock with low-slung buildings awash in shades of ochre, mustard, and vermilion—will keep you happily meandering for hours, as will its countless galleries and chic boutiques, whose sleek storefronts and soignée wares underscore the city’s dramatic juxtaposition of past and present.

Fittingly, it was artists who first resuscitated San Miguel starting about a century ago. Beguiled by its architectural majesty and exquisite light, they took up residence in droves, establishing art and cultural institutes including the Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes and the Instituto Allende, both cofounded by Chicagoan Stirling Dickinson. Having happened upon the flagging city in 1937 after graduating from Princeton, he was instantly enchanted, promptly becoming a familiar sight around town atop his burro. After serving in intelligence posts during World War II, he returned to San Miguel and began recruiting young American veterans to study at Bellas Artes on the G.I. Bill, continuing to play a vital role in the city’s renaissance until his death in 1998. Today, he’s largely credited with turning San Miguel de Allende into both an international arts center and a sought-after destination for adventurous Americans.

值得一看

用狄金森自己的話說，他第一眼見到拉帕羅基亞-德圣米格爾-阿坎格爾就想留在這座城市，這是一座粉紅色的新哥特式教堂，以其高聳的尖頂而聞名于世。如今這座標志性的教堂，依然是這個城市最令人肅然起敬的地標。16世紀教堂建成后，曾經(jīng)年久失修，它的脫胎換骨始于1880年，當?shù)氐囊晃皇澈徒ㄖ熖啤筛ダ镏Z·古鐵雷斯負責對它進行了改造。古鐵雷斯從歐洲教堂的照片中汲取靈感；而由于他的工匠是文盲，他就用樹枝在紅土上勾勒出他的設(shè)計方案，將他腦海中的設(shè)想在未來的十年中變?yōu)榱爽F(xiàn)實。

What to see

By his own account, it was Dickinson’s first glimpse of La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel—the pink, neo-Gothic parish church renowned for its soaring spires—that compelled him to stay, and today the iconic cathedral remains the city’s most awe-inspiring landmark. Having fallen into sundry states of disrepair following its initial 16th-century construction, its metamorphosis began in 1880, when Don Zefferino Gutiérrez, a local master stonemason and architect, was charged with giving it a serious facelift. Gutiérrez drew on images of European cathedrals for artistic inspiration; because his craftsmen were illiterate, he sketched his designs in the red-clay soil with a stick, bringing his vision to life over the ensuing decade.

毫不奇怪，這個城市有著一些獨特的博物館，比如圣米格爾面具博物館，其所有者和策展人比爾·勒瓦瑟花了將近25年時間，收集了超過500種墨西哥的儀式面具。勒瓦瑟是緬因州人，曾任廣告主管，富有魅力的他與墨西哥土著社區(qū)相遇的故事，本身就像面具一樣令人著迷。

從面具博物館出發(fā)，走5分鐘就到了拉艾斯奎那博物館，那里聚集了拉美最多的玩具，超過3000種，從精心繡制的玩偶和彩虹色的皮那塔，到復雜的耶穌誕生像群和微型摩天輪，讓歷經(jīng)滄桑的觀光者也頓時回到童年。

Not surprisingly, the city boasts some unique museums, like the Mask Museum of San Miguel, whose owner and curator, Bill LeVasseur, has spent nearly 25 years acquiring a collection of over 500 Mexican ceremonial masks. A Maine native and former advertising executive, the charismatic LeVasseur’s tales of his encounters with Mexico’s indigenous communities are as fascinating as the masks themselves.

From there, it’s a five-minute walk to the Museo La Esquina, which showcases one of Latin America’s largest collections of toys. Encompassing 3,000-plus playthings ranging from elaborately embroidered dolls and rainbow-hued pi?atas to intricate Nativity sets and miniature ferris wheels, it will make the most world-weary visitor feel like a kid again.

這座城市流行的美學氛圍，在奧羅拉制造廠就顯得生機勃勃，這里曾是一個紡織工廠擺放過巨型機器，現(xiàn)在卻是陳列著各種室內(nèi)設(shè)計、古董、珠寶和陶瓷的畫廊和精品店。挑剔的購物者在這精美的地域一待就是幾個小時，這里的室內(nèi)和室外空間幾乎是無縫地融合在了一起。

值得一吃

如果你徘徊累了腹中空空，那你又有福了：最近10年里，圣米格爾發(fā)展成了一個美食藝術(shù)的中心。從勒賈丁步行不遠，The Restaurant是享用休閑午餐的好去處，美國廚師唐尼·馬斯特頓會為你烹飪風味食品，比如帶香辣木槿花洋蔥味的鴨酥玉米餅，你可以嚼著餅沐浴在陽光斑紋的18世紀摩洛哥式庭院里。

The city’s prevailing penchant for aesthetics comes to life in an especially shoppable way at Fabrica La Aurora, a former textile factory, where halls once home to giant looms are lined with galleries and boutiques specializing in interior design, antiques, jewelry, and ceramics. Discerning shoppers can easily spend a few hours wandering its judiciously designed floor plan, which seamlessly blends indoor and outdoor space to winning effect.

What to eat

If all this perusing has you feeling famished, you’re in luck: the last decade has seen San Miguel also blossom as a center of gastronomic artistry. A short stroll from Le Jardín, The Restaurant is a primo spot for a leisurely lunch, where American chef Donnie Masterton prepares flavorful plates like duck confit tacos with spicy hibiscus blossom-onion relish served in a sun-streaked, 18th century Moroccan courtyard.

牛肉小酒館坐落在前衛(wèi)的康迪格郵政設(shè)計區(qū)，這是一個裝飾藝術(shù)風格的熱點區(qū)，澳大利亞廚師保羅·本特利在此為你準備經(jīng)典美食牛排。在享用牛排或用肉豆蔻蜂蜜蘸乳豬前，先嘗嘗用黃油和香草烤的牡蠣以及用桃子和奶酪制成的番茄沙拉。

如果想在晚餐時享受熱鬧的氣氛，請前往拉烏尼卡，并在樓上的露天餐廳用餐，一邊品味著塞拉諾火腿炸丸子、熱辣的酸橘汁腌魚和頂級瑪格麗塔酒，一邊在勒賈丁的樹梢下將拉帕羅奎亞的景色一覽無余。

值得一喝

談到喝，龍舌蘭酒鑒賞家會鐘情于龍宮龍舌蘭，這是墨西哥最受歡迎的小批量龍舌蘭酒，該酒由博薩·岡薩雷斯·尼維斯在2008年首推——他也是第一位龍舌蘭酒釀制大師，與他合作的有MTV的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人鮑勃·皮特曼。這座如今的私人住所在17世紀曾經(jīng)是龍宮的馬棚，龍宮是西班牙女王最精銳的騎兵，由伊那西奧·阿連德率領(lǐng)，而他后來成了墨西哥獨立運動的領(lǐng)袖。

接下來，要輪到Doce 18概念屋那個裝滿黑曜石的品酒室，來品嘗它的招牌未熟化酒——一種由長柄水晶玻璃裝著的百分百藍色龍舌蘭銀和超熟龍舌蘭酒的混合物。此后，你還可以去圣米格爾的各間明星屋頂酒吧，比如去市里唯一的一家屋頂壽司吧Quince去品嘗屢獲殊榮的雞尾酒，或者去觀看圣米格爾日落的最佳場所Luna Rooftop Tapas酒吧。

Bovine Brasserie, housed in the edgy Codigo Postal Design Collective, is an art deco-inspired hotspot where Australian chef Paul Bentley puts his spin on steakhouse classics. Before diving into a rib-eye or suckling pig with mesquite honey, try the grilled oysters with butter and herbs and the tomato salad with peach and burrata.

For atmosphere galore at dinnertime, head to La Unica and grab a table in the upstairs al fresco dining room, where jaw-dropping views of La Parroquia across Le Jardín’s treetops accompany Serrano ham croquettes, zesty ceviche, and top-notch margaritas.

What to drink

Speaking of which, tequila connoisseurs should beeline to La Casa Dragones, a temple to Casa Dragones, Mexico’s most coveted, small-batch tequila, launched in 2008 by Bertha González Nieves—the first woman to become a master tequila distiller—and MTV cofounder Bob Pittman. The now-private home was once the 17th century stables of the Dragones—formerly the Queen of Spain’s most elite cavalry, led by Ignacio Allende—who later became champions of Mexico’s independence movement.

Afterward, duck into the obsidian-clad tasting room at Doce 18 Concept House to sip its signature joven—a blend of 100% blue agave silver and extra-aged tequila—from a long-stemmed crystal glass. Then bar-hop between San Miguel’s all-star lineup of rooftop bars, including Quince, where award-winning cocktails complement nibbles from the city’s only rooftop sushi bar, and the Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar, the best place in town to take in a spectacular San Miguel sunset.

渴望進行實地考察的釀酒業(yè)者該去看看墨西哥最受贊譽的精品釀酒廠之一庫納德第拉酒莊（意思是地球的搖籃），從鄰近的多洛雷斯·伊達爾戈市出發(fā)不到一個小時的車程，這個城市是另一位國家先驅(qū)米格爾·伊達爾戈最早喊出 “多洛雷斯呼聲”的地方，這一呼就成了墨西哥獨立戰(zhàn)爭的號角。您可以在風景如畫的80英畝葡萄園中乘坐拖拉機游覽，并品嘗其12個年份的酒-包括獲獎的Pago de Vega（Cabernet Sauvignon、Cabernet Franc、Merlot和Syrah）和Cuna de Tierra Nebbiolo （Nebbiolo和Malbec）——并享用美味的午餐，例如腌制仙人掌玉米餅伴大豆醬、醬制排骨和焦糖蔬菜。

庫納德第拉獨特的沙漠風土（沙土、炎熱、晴天多和涼爽的夜晚）為其葡萄酒增添了高品質(zhì)的酸度。瓜納華托州的第一家釀酒廠已經(jīng)運營了15年，現(xiàn)在每年生產(chǎn)12萬瓶酒。該地區(qū)精心的現(xiàn)代設(shè)計與周圍的鄉(xiāng)村形成鮮明對比，而墨西哥漫長的爭取主權(quán)的斗爭就發(fā)端于此，這再次展示了該地區(qū)迷人的歷史和現(xiàn)代的結(jié)合。

值得一住

開業(yè)不到一年，水上城市度假村已經(jīng)躋身為該市繁華酒店中的最頂級的一員，內(nèi)行人都喜歡住這兒，因為這里有豪華的住宿條件、一流的餐飲以及獨一無二的未來莊園氣氛，將現(xiàn)代美學與城市的殖民歷史巧妙融合。

Oenophiles hankering for a field trip will want to visit Cuna de Tierra (Cradle of Earth), one of Mexico’s most acclaimed boutique wineries, less than an hour’s drive away in the neighboring city of Dolores Hidalgo, where Miguel Hidalgo—the country’s other original patriot—first uttered the “Grito de Dolores,” the battle cry of the Mexican War of Independence. You can take a guided tour on a tractor-drawn cart through the scenic 80 acres of vineyards and sample its 12 vintages—including the award-winning Pago de Vega (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah) and Cuna de Tierra Nebbiolo (Nebbiolo and Malbec)—over a delectable pairing lunch of dishes like corn tetelas with cured cactus and bean sauce and braised short rib with mole and caramelized vegetables.

Cuna de Tierra’s distinct desert terroir (sandy soil, hot, sunny days, and cool nights) lends a high-quality acidity to its wines. Guanajuato’s first winery, it’s been operating for 15 years and now produces 120,000 bottles annually. The property’s artfully modern design contrasts starkly with the surrounding countryside where Mexico’s long battle for sovereignty first erupted—another reminder of the area’s fascinating mix of history and progress.

Where to stay

Since opening less than a year ago, Live Aqua Urban Resort San Miguel de Allende, the latest top-tier addition to the city’s bustling hotel scene, has become a magnet for those in-the-know, thanks to its inspired mélange of luxurious accommodations, first-rate dining, and singular hacienda-of-the-future vibe that melds a modern aesthetic with subtle nods to the city’s colonial past.

墨西哥藝術(shù)家哈維·馬林創(chuàng)作的22英尺長青銅雕塑“香草頭”在入口處迎接著游客，這是對圣米格爾高聳入云的藝術(shù)遺產(chǎn)的頌歌。度假村內(nèi)部，共有153間客房，各具特色，例如配有最新碟片的唱機、耀眼的瓷磚工藝以及獨立的玻璃封閉式壁櫥。

去看看度假村廣闊的開放空間吧——一層由拱門環(huán)成一圈并由Matatena雕塑錨定的內(nèi)部庭院，這個金屬和木制的雕塑由墨西哥藝術(shù)家羅德里格·加拉加薩創(chuàng)作，——使該度假勝地擁有露天畫廊的寧靜氛圍，最多可以容納900人在此聚會。

Mexican artist Javier Marín’s 22-foot bronze sculpture, Cabeza Vainilla (Vanilla Head), stops visitors in their tracks at the entrance, an ode to San Miguel’s towering artistic legacy. Inside, 153 guest rooms feature distinctive touches like turntables complete with LPs, splashy tile work, and freestanding, glass-enclosed closets.

Sprawling open spaces—like the ground-floor interior courtyard ringed by archways and anchored by Matatena, a massive metal-and-wood sculpture by Mexican artist Rodrigo Garagarza—lend the resort the tranquil ambience of an open-air gallery and serve as atmospheric venues for gatherings of up to 900.

到了晚上，客人們聚集在迷人的阿爾伯庭院的火爐旁，該露臺以雄偉的北美灰樹命名，這種樹布滿了整個空間，樹枝在天黑后閃耀著白光。酒店前臺的對面有一家面包店和酒店最好的兩家餐館之一的Zibu Allende餐館，在這個設(shè)計考究的餐館里可以吃到富有想象力的墨西哥-泰國融合美食，它還提供世界一流的早餐，以復雜的墨西哥旋球方式呈現(xiàn)。

樓上，在昏暗的龍宮龍舌蘭雪茄吧中，切斯特菲爾德真皮沙發(fā)和喜怒無常的油漆調(diào)色板，營造出舒適而悶熱的氛圍，非常適合深夜買醉。

At night, guests congregate by the fire pit in the inviting Patio de Arból, named for the majestic North American ash tree that presides over the space, its boughs aglow with white lights after dark. Across from the reception desk that doubles as a panaderia (bakery), Zibu Allende, one of the hotel’s two fine-dining restaurants, serves imaginative Mexican-Thai fusion cuisine in a sumptuously designed setting, as well as a world-class breakfast menu with a sophisticated Mexican spin.

Upstairs, in the low-lit Casa Dragones Cigar Bar, leather Chesterfield sofas and a moody paint palette create a cozy yet sultry vibe perfect for late-night tippling.

走了一整天的鵝卵石路，酒店的溫泉浴場不可不去，里面設(shè)有10個按摩室、蒸汽浴室和休閑游泳池。該酒店最近還獨家推出了熱氣球游覽，可方便地從屋頂露臺起飛，40分鐘游覽鳥瞰這座殖民城市。(財富中文網(wǎng)）

譯者：宣峰

After a long day pounding the cobblestones, the resort’s subtly dazzling spa is a must-visit, featuring ten massage rooms, a steam room, and a relaxation pool. The hotel also recently launched an exclusive hot-air balloon excursion that conveniently takes off from the rooftop terrace for a 40-minute, bird’s-eye perspective on the colonial city.