秋天是納帕谷收獲的季節(jié)，也是探訪美國頂尖葡萄酒產(chǎn)區(qū)的最佳時(shí)期。雖然去年的山火破壞了部分山谷區(qū)，但重建工作相當(dāng)迅速，還新開了一系列新酒莊。以位于加州圣赫勒那的Ink House為例，這是一家超級(jí)奢華，有四間客房的精品酒店。建筑為殖民地風(fēng)格，從寬敞的全景陽臺(tái)可一覽葡萄園和遠(yuǎn)處連綿起伏的山色。內(nèi)部則非?，F(xiàn)代（裝有黃銅藤蔓枝形吊燈），營(yíng)造出溫馨的居家氛圍。

Autumn?ushers Napa Valley into harvest season, one of the best times to visit the nation’s premier wine region. Though last year’s wildfires ravaged parts of the California valley, rebuilding has been quick, and there have been a spate of new openings, like the Ink House, an ultra-exclusive, four-room boutique hotel in St. Helena. The colonial-style mansion’s wide, wraparound veranda offers a vista of vineyards and the rolling hills beyond; inside, modern accents (a chandelier of brass vines) spice up the homey atmosphere.

入住Ink House的好處之一是，可專享酒店主廚布萊恩·伍利的各項(xiàng)服務(wù)，他做的炒雞蛋造型奇特堪稱一絕，還向來客傾囊相授游玩秘笈。以下是他的建議。

最佳新開餐廳：位于圣赫勒那的休閑餐廳Charter Oak非常棒，創(chuàng)辦人為米其林三星級(jí)廚師克里斯托弗·庫斯托和Meadowood的納撒尼爾·多恩。不管是就餐氛圍、食物、雞尾酒課程，還是葡萄酒課程，一切都提現(xiàn)了頂尖餐廳水準(zhǔn)。納帕市中心有墨西哥餐廳Gran Eléctrica（老店位于紐約布魯克林）。還有一家超級(jí)棒的酒吧，提供各種龍舌蘭酒和梅斯卡。在納帕谷享受美食是一種全新體驗(yàn)，并非典型的農(nóng)場(chǎng)到餐桌方式。

最熱門的葡萄酒莊：圣赫勒那Sinegal Estate酒莊老板是零售巨頭好市多的繼承人，但從酒莊一點(diǎn)也看不出來。Sinegal酒莊設(shè)有私人品酒休息室，內(nèi)藏豐富的現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)作品，四周是花園環(huán)繞的華麗莊園。私藏紅酒絕對(duì)口感一流。Aonair酒莊也在圣赫勒那，比起俯瞰美麗葡萄園的視覺享受，品酒體驗(yàn)更是上佳。這家酒莊由家族掌管，人跡罕至，嚴(yán)格來說屬于康谷的一部分。可以試試其出產(chǎn)的山間私藏紅葡萄混釀。

One of the perks of staying at the Ink House: unfettered access to Brian Woolery, the property’s chef—his scrambled eggs defy gravity—and all-knowing concierge. Here’s what he recommends.

Best new restaurants: The Charter Oak, the casual St. Helena restaurant started by three-Michelin-star chef Christopher Kostow and Meadowood’s Nathaniel Dorn, is phenomenal. The atmosphere, the food, the cocktail program, the wine program—everything about it is the epitome of what a great place to eat should be. In downtown Napa, there’s the Mexican restaurant Gran Eléctrica (the original is in Brooklyn). There’s an amazing bar with a range of tequilas and mezcals. It’s a fresh twist on Napa Valley dining that isn’t your typical farm-to-table approach.

Hottest wineries: The proprietor of Sinegal Estate in St. Helena may be an heir to Costco, but you would never know it from his winery. Sinegal has a private tasting lounge that’s filled with modern art and a gorgeous estate surrounded by gardens. Its reserve red is absolutely delicious. Aonair is also in St. Helena, and the tasting experience overlooks its stunning vineyards. Family owned and off the beaten path, it is technically part of Conn Valley. Try its Mountains Reserve red blend.

避世之所：試試圣赫勒那的美國烹飪學(xué)院吧，可以參加為期半天的烹飪課程，向美國頂尖廚師學(xué)習(xí)廚藝。附近有納帕谷健康水療中心，有室外游泳池和按摩浴缸，還有各類按摩、面部護(hù)理和其他理療服務(wù)。非常適合放松身心，也適合品酒間歇稍事休息。酒店客人可免費(fèi)體驗(yàn)。

當(dāng)?shù)厝瞬胖赖拿孛埽?/strong>在Rutherford Grill享用午餐。坐在酒吧里會(huì)驚訝地發(fā)現(xiàn)很多釀酒師跟同事和朋友見面，他們帶著最新的木桶紅酒樣品共同討論。食物也很棒，牛排辣醬玉米卷餅配胡桃南瓜尤其美味。

Sober escape: Check out the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena, where you can take a half-day cooking class with some of the best chefs in the country. Nearby, there’s Health Spa Napa Valley—it has an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi as well as a full menu of massages, facials, and other treatments. It’s an ideal way to relax and get a break from tastings. Our guests get complimentary passes.

Locals’ secret: Lunch at Rutherford Grill. Sit at the bar and be amazed by how many winemakers you’ll see and hear meeting their colleagues and friends, bringing fresh barrel samples, and talking about them. The food is also excellent—the steak enchilada with butternut squash is unexpectedly delicious.

Things to avoid: Not knowing how far places are from one another, a lot of people think Napa and Sonoma are a quick drive apart. But on most days, it takes at least an hour to get from one to the other. Consider focusing on one appellation—St. Helena one day, Howell Mountain another—with one or two preplanned tastings. Leave time for yourself to take locals up on their recommendations—if you’re getting along really well with the tasting-room manager at, say, Darioush, he’s going to recommend other places you might like.

The $10,000 Day

We asked Woolery to plan us a special, singular day in Napa Valley:

You’ll arrive in the valley via private jet or helicopter to Napa County Airport. We’ll pick you up in the house car, a Bentley, and check you in at the Ink House (which will be all yours for the night), before whisking you off to the Meadowood Spa for some post-travel pampering. You’ll meet with a wellness therapist, who will oversee your treatments, and enjoy a 90-minute culinary experience in your personal spa suite. After the spa you’ll do a private tasting at Promontory, an exclusive winery in the heart of Oakville that’s famous for its Bordeauxstyle Cabernet. Back at the Ink House, Top Chef alum Casey Thompson will prepare a gourmet dinner to round out the day.

A version of this article appears in the November 1, 2018 issue of Fortune with the headline “Napa Done Right.”