????上周五，烏克蘭首都基輔迎來(lái)今年第一個(gè)溫暖的春日。數(shù)百位基輔居民不約而同地前往首都最美麗的一處所在，在那里沐浴陽(yáng)光。這是一座氣勢(shì)恢宏，猶如公園般的莊園，里面不僅有修剪整齊的花園，網(wǎng)球場(chǎng)，保齡球館，甚至還有一座游艇碼頭。就在幾個(gè)星期前，烏克蘭人甚至還不知道這個(gè)地方的存在。當(dāng)然，要是他們膽敢闖入高大威嚴(yán)、配有金邊的大門(mén)，他們馬上就會(huì)面臨被逮捕的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)?，F(xiàn)在，這塊區(qū)域儼然已是烏克蘭參觀人數(shù)最多的景點(diǎn)之一。作為一座活生生的博物館，它記錄的那個(gè)世界已經(jīng)在不經(jīng)意間蕩然無(wú)存，留在身后的是一個(gè)不確定的未來(lái)。

????歡迎光臨前總統(tǒng)維克托?亞努科維奇的官邸。

????2月22日，烏克蘭前總統(tǒng)維克托?亞努科維奇匆匆逃往俄羅斯數(shù)小時(shí)后，一群激進(jìn)分子沖入基輔郊外的Novi Petrivci村。烏克蘭的總統(tǒng)官邸多年來(lái)一直坐落在流淌過(guò)這個(gè)村莊的第聶伯河河畔。

????高墻后的發(fā)現(xiàn)讓他們驚愕萬(wàn)分。那棟舊官邸的氣勢(shì)完全被一棟簇新的五層木面豪宅遮掩住了，這棟豪宅是前總統(tǒng)在2011年左右專門(mén)為他和年輕的情婦建造的。彼時(shí)的烏克蘭債臺(tái)高筑，正在竭力擺脫全球經(jīng)濟(jì)衰退的陰影。

????豪宅外處處是修剪整齊的草坪。精致的小橋旁矗立著一艘全尺寸的海盜船，不遠(yuǎn)處還有一個(gè)溫室和一個(gè)滿是各種珍稀鳥(niǎo)類和鴕鳥(niǎo)的動(dòng)物園。這塊區(qū)域非常神秘，直至2月22日，它的上空還是禁飛區(qū)?；▓@里裝備了多部安保攝像機(jī)，用以確保工作人員沒(méi)有拍下彰顯總統(tǒng)財(cái)富的證據(jù)——烏克蘭新政府聲稱，這些錢(qián)基本上都來(lái)自國(guó)庫(kù)。

????但真正令人瞠目結(jié)舌的奢華是過(guò)去兩周來(lái)造訪這棟豪宅的烏克蘭老百姓無(wú)緣領(lǐng)略的——亞努科維奇的私人豪宅內(nèi)部現(xiàn)在已是游客禁地。這棟房屋被上鎖了，上個(gè)月還在基輔獨(dú)立廣場(chǎng)示威的年輕人站立在門(mén)外，用心看護(hù)著屋內(nèi)琳瑯滿目的無(wú)價(jià)之寶。

????上周五早上，《財(cái)富》記者獲準(zhǔn)進(jìn)入這棟私人城堡，好好地窺視了一番烏克蘭前領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人令人難以想象的奢華生活。“我想法國(guó)的凡爾賽宮頂多也就是這樣子吧，”18歲的朱莉婭?米基堅(jiān)科說(shuō)。為了保護(hù)這棟房屋免遭掠奪，這位學(xué)語(yǔ)言的女生目前跟其他幾位激進(jìn)分子住在屋內(nèi)——他們睡在古色古香的雕花床上，用純金打造的浴室設(shè)備洗澡。她一邊引領(lǐng)我穿過(guò)大理石走廊，登上精雕細(xì)刻的樓梯，一邊說(shuō)：“我們很多人認(rèn)為應(yīng)該保留這里的一切，把它作為一個(gè)貪腐博物館?！?/p>

????這棟房屋完全配得上博物館的稱謂。一個(gè)龐大的水晶吊燈（眾多水晶吊燈之一）懸掛在一個(gè)飛機(jī)庫(kù)般大小的客廳之上。客廳中一處可俯瞰花園的位置擺放著一架白色的斯坦韋牌臥式鋼琴。在屋內(nèi)堆積如山的文件中，活動(dòng)人士發(fā)現(xiàn)了數(shù)枚銀質(zhì)匕首和一把鑲有5.1克拉白色鉆石、純金打造的.38口徑史密斯韋森手槍的防偽證明書(shū)。走進(jìn)一個(gè)大型酒吧，映入眼簾的是各種法國(guó)美酒，令人應(yīng)接不暇。這棟豪宅的3D影院配有環(huán)繞音效系統(tǒng)和按摩椅，還收藏了一些好萊塢大片的DVD影碟，其中包括《肖申克的救贖》(Shawshank Redemption)和《愛(ài)麗絲漫游奇遇記》(Alice in Wonderland)。

????On the first warm Spring day in Ukraine on Friday, hundreds of Kiev residents headed to the capital's loveliest spot to soak up the sun: A sprawling park-like estate, with manicured gardens, and a tennis court, bowling alley, and yachting marina. Until a few weeks ago, Ukrainians did not even know this place existed. Certainly, they would have faced immediate arrest had they dared venture through the tall, gold-trimmed gates. Now, the area is one of Ukraine's most visited sites, a living museum to a world that has suddenly, unexpectedly vanished, leaving an uncertain future in its place.

????Welcome to the home of ousted president Viktor Yanukovych.

????Hours after former Ukrainian president Viktor Yanukovych fled for his life to Russia on February 22, activists raced to the village of Novi Petrivci, outside Kiev, where Ukraine's presidential residence has for years sat on the banks of the Dnipro River.

????What they found behind the high walls astonished them. The old official residence was dwarfed by a new, five-story, wood-sided mansion, which the president had commissioned for himself and his young mistress around 2011, at a time when Ukraine was deep in debt, and trying to dig itself out from the global recession.

????Outside, the manicured grounds contain graceful bridges, a full-sized pirate ship, a greenhouse, and a zoo filled with rare birds and ostriches. So secret was the area that the airspace above was closed to planes until February 22. Security cameras embedded in the gardens helped to ensure that no staff member snapped evidence of the president's wealth -- money that was largely siphoned off from public coffers, according to Ukraine's new government.

????But the truly jaw-dropping opulence is off-limits to regular Ukrainians, who have descended on the estate during the past two weeks: Inside Yanukovych's private mansion. Filled with priceless objects, the house is locked, and young activists—who until last month were demonstrating on Kiev's Independence Square -- stand guard outside.

????On Friday morning, Fortune was treated to an in-depth tour of the private quarters, offering a window into the incalculable luxury Ukraine's leader enjoyed. "France has the Versailles castle, and I would like this to be like that," says Julia Mykytenko, 18, a language student who is one of the activists currently living in the house -- sleeping in the antique carved beds and showering with solid-gold bathroom fittings -- in order to safeguard it from looters. As she guided me through the marble hallways and up a series of intricately carved staircases, she said, "Many of us think this should remain as a museum of corruption."

????As a museum, the house is hard to beat. A vast crystal chandelier (one of many) hangs over a hangar-sized living room, where a white Steinway baby grand overlooks overlooking the gardens. Amid the mountain of documents uncovered in the house were certificates of authenticity for silver daggers and a solid-gold Smith & Wesson .38-cal. handgun, encrusted with 5.1-carat white diamonds. A large bar is stocked with fine French wines. And the mansion's 3-D cinema has Surround-sound, massage chairs, and a small collection of Hollywood hits on DVD, including Shawshank Redemption and Alice in Wonderland.