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專欄 - 向Anne提問

在工作場合哪些衣服不該穿

Anne Fisher 2013年09月29日

Anne Fisher為《財(cái)富》雜志《向Anne提問》的專欄作者,這個(gè)職場專欄始于1996年,幫助讀者適應(yīng)經(jīng)濟(jì)的興衰起落、行業(yè)轉(zhuǎn)換,以及工作中面臨的各種困惑。
自從不修邊幅的科技英雄們引領(lǐng)了時(shí)代思潮以來,職場著裝規(guī)范便一直有些混亂。但明智的做法,還是不要太過“休閑”。

親愛的安妮:請您幫忙解決一個(gè)爭論。我所在的品牌管理團(tuán)隊(duì)約有20人,我認(rèn)為其中有些人對于“商務(wù)休閑”服裝概念的理解有些過了。可問題是,界限到底在哪里?我認(rèn)為漂白的牛仔褲(還帶著洞)、瑜伽褲和吊帶衫,都不適合辦公室。我并不是說所有人都得像從前那樣,在辦公室必須西裝革履,但如果穿著打扮看起來就像剛從床上爬起來一樣,對一個(gè)人的職業(yè)前景也不會有什么好處。

????可我的幾位同事卻并不同意我的觀點(diǎn)。他們經(jīng)常穿著各種奇怪的、隨便的衣服出現(xiàn)在辦公室。他們給出了兩條理由:首先,只要你的工作很出色,無論穿什么都是明星。其次,既然Facebook進(jìn)行IPO時(shí),馬克?扎克伯格能穿著牛仔褲和衛(wèi)衣在紐約證交所(New York Stock Exchange)亮相,這便證明職場著裝規(guī)范早已不復(fù)存在。您認(rèn)為呢?——F.F.

親愛的F.F.:這是一個(gè)很有趣的問題。在過去15年間,創(chuàng)業(yè)公司自由的辦公室著裝,逐漸在整個(gè)職場流行起來。勞倫?A?羅斯曼表示:“最開始是‘休閑星期五’,后來便逐漸成為職場的一種著裝趨勢?!绷_斯曼是《職場著裝圣經(jīng)》(Style Bible: What to Wear to Work)一書的作者。

????羅斯曼是一位資深時(shí)尚達(dá)人,其咨詢公司Styleauteur曾在《財(cái)富》500強(qiáng)( Fortune 500)和其他公司舉辦過成功著裝研討會。她經(jīng)常被邀請指導(dǎo)高管如何塑造自己的形象,體現(xiàn)個(gè)人風(fēng)格。她說道:“比如,有律師事務(wù)所和大型會計(jì)事務(wù)所對我說:‘你能幫一下某某人嗎?他要想成為合伙人,起碼要先看起來像一名合伙人吧?!?/p>

????這是有道理的:“我們都認(rèn)為外形并不重要,可現(xiàn)實(shí)情況是,包裝非常重要。一個(gè)人的穿著是個(gè)人品牌的一部分,代表了一個(gè)人的職業(yè)形象。在任何大公司,要想有所發(fā)展,必須讓自己看起來像那么回事。俗話說得好:‘按照你想要從事的工作挑選衣服,而不是根據(jù)想穿的衣服來挑工作?!?/p>

????換言之,如果你的上司和其他高層沒有穿著漂白牛仔褲和吊帶衫來上班,你的同事們可能就會好好想想。至于馬克?扎克伯格的穿著,除非你的同事恰好也是白手起家的億萬富翁,否則,扎克伯格的喜好與他們有什么關(guān)系?

????職場著裝規(guī)定也有許多不確定性,原因是,雖然許多公司確實(shí)規(guī)定了著裝規(guī)范(而且不同行業(yè)、不同地區(qū)之間存在較大差異),但羅斯曼認(rèn)為:“大多數(shù)公司的管理者并沒有很好的傳達(dá)公司希望員工展現(xiàn)怎樣的形象。如果你不告訴員工標(biāo)準(zhǔn)是什么,又怎么能讓他們遵守標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。不過,大多數(shù)雇主確實(shí)希望員工在公司的穿著,不要像呆在家中時(shí)一樣隨便?!?

Dear Annie: Please settle an argument. I work with a brand-management team of about 20, some of whom I really think take the notion of "business casual" clothing a few steps over the line. The question is, where is the line? I say acid-washed jeans (with holes), yoga pants, and tank tops just don't belong in the office. Not that everyone has to go back to the old days of wearing suits and ties all the time, God forbid, but it doesn't help a person's career prospects if they look like they just rolled out of bed, either.

????Several of my coworkers, who show up wearing all kinds of strange and sloppy things, disagree. Their argument is two-fold: First, if your work is really topnotch, it doesn't matter what you wear, you're still a star. And second, if Mark Zuckerberg can show up on the floor of the New York Stock Exchange for Facebook's (FB) IPO wearing jeans and a hoodie, it proves there are no more rules about clothes. What do you say? -- Fashion Fan

Dear F.F.: Interesting question. Slowly, over the past 15 years or so, startups' lack of office dress code has permeated the work world. "It started with 'casual Fridays' and devolved from there," says Lauren A. Rothman, author of a new book called Style Bible: What to Wear to Work.

????Rothman is a longtime professional fashionista whose consulting firm, Styleauteur, runs dress-for-success seminars at Fortune 500 companies and elsewhere. She's frequently called in to coach individual executives on sprucing up their personal style. "For instance, I've had law firms and major accounting firms call me and say, 'Can you work with So-and-So? He's not going to make partner until he starts looking like one,'" she says.

????There's a reason for that: "We'd all love to believe appearances don't matter, but the reality is, packaging counts. What you wear is part of your overall personal brand, your professional image. If you want to move up in your career at almost any big company, you have to look the part. The old adage 'dress for the job you want, not the job you have' is still true."

????In other words, if your boss and other higher-ups aren't coming to work in acid-washed jeans and tank tops, your colleagues might want to take the hint. And as for what Mark Zuckerberg wears, unless your coworkers also happen to be self-made billionaires, how relevant is that?

????Some uncertainty over how to dress for work springs from the fact that, although many companies do still have actual dress codes -- which tend to vary a lot from one industry, and one region of the country, to another -- "managers at most businesses don't do a great job of communicating what is expected, or what image the company wants employees to project," Rothman notes. "It's hard to hold people to a standard if you haven't told them what the standard is. Nevertheless, most employers do want you to dress differently than you would if you were just hanging out at home."??

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