????去年8月，巴塞羅那攝影師溫塞斯?福納的一張照片登上了全球的各大報紙。照片中，一群年輕的意大利游客在巴塞羅那濱海街區(qū)閑蕩。當時正值下午，這些游客看上去非常高興。

????但特別之處在于，這些人全身一絲不掛。

????對巴塞羅那的工薪階層而言，這些赤身裸體的意大利人成了“壓倒駱駝的最后一根稻草”。在接下來的數(shù)晚，幾千名市民走上空氣濕潤的夏日街頭，唱著圣歌，敲盆打碗地抗議游客數(shù)量超過負荷。他們的條幅上寫著：“本社區(qū)恕不出售。”

????與巴黎、布拉格、威尼斯等許多歐洲城市一樣，巴塞羅那曾經大力發(fā)展旅游業(yè)。借1992年奧運會之機，這座城市清潔了海灘，修起了游艇碼頭，擴建了機場，恢復了之前疏于管理的巴塞羅那老城區(qū)，以吸引游客。

????游客的確蜂擁而來：根據(jù)政府公布的數(shù)據(jù)，從1990年到2013年，在巴塞羅那過夜的游客數(shù)量從每年170萬人增長至每年760萬人，賓館客房的數(shù)量從1.0265萬間增長至3.7069萬間。如今，旅游業(yè)占巴塞羅那經濟總量的14%。

????但今天許多當?shù)厝讼雴?，旅游業(yè)的發(fā)展是否有個上限？

????在這座擁有160萬居民的擁擠城市，旅游業(yè)帶來的沖擊不容忽視。如今，在巴塞羅那市中心老城區(qū)的主干道蘭布拉大街上，79%不是本地人，58%是外國游客。每當夜幕降臨時，一群群來自歐洲各地的單身男女穿越市中心老城區(qū)，他們常常在大街上嘔吐和招妓。

????旅游業(yè)不止影響到市中心老城區(qū)。著名加泰羅尼亞建筑師安東尼?高迪設計的不朽作品，尤其是被聯(lián)合國教科文組織列為世界遺產的古埃爾公園和神圣家族大教堂的周邊地區(qū)，已經被旅游團和大巴車弄得幾乎和居民區(qū)無法區(qū)分了。

????在游客最多的區(qū)域，居民失去了住所，因為房東把它們變成了短租房屋。那些繼續(xù)住下去的人也很難找到賣日用品的商店，那里的商店只賣便宜的啤酒、紀念品和巴塞羅那球星萊昂內爾?梅西的10號球衣。

????由于游客大軍的來臨和本地身份感的缺失，魯姆?文圖拉?吉爾等人不禁抱怨他們的社區(qū)已經成為“主題公園”。她曾經在巴塞羅那住了很長時間，最近卻由于游客過多離開了那里。

????她表示：“巴塞羅那的精髓正在消逝?！?/p>

????巴塞羅那的情況并非孤例，歐洲城市的抗爭甚至催生了一系列悲嘆大眾旅游的紀錄片。委內瑞拉制片人愛德華多?奇瓦斯拍攝的《再見巴塞羅那》，在YouTube上點擊數(shù)超過30萬次，此外還有以柏林為主題的《歡迎，再見》，以及《威尼斯綜合征》。（這些影片的共同點是什么？一堆滾輪箱包在鵝卵石上拖行發(fā)出的那種令人惱火的聲音。）

????巴塞羅那酒店經理霍爾迪?克洛斯表示，這座城市應該把過夜的旅客數(shù)量限定在每年1000萬人次，從而躋身歐洲一流城市的行列。不過當?shù)厝税l(fā)出了質疑：大眾旅游是否已經讓巴塞羅那的部分地區(qū)變得不適合居住了。許多巴塞羅那人已經逃離：從2006年到2013年，1.46萬人離開了市中心老城區(qū)，占總人口的12.3%。

????由于市民的抗議，市政府和區(qū)政府終于決定采取行動。去年，他們暫時停止了給短租公寓頒發(fā)新牌照，并且對Airbnb處以3萬英鎊的罰金，因為該網站非法向游客出租客房。

????在巴塞羅那游行之后，政府在街區(qū)增派了警力和巡視員，逮捕那些向游客出租房間、但并未獲得政府許可的業(yè)主，并迅速關閉了170個短租公寓。

????今年2月底，約250名當?shù)厝藚⒓恿艘粓龉_聽證會（還有更多人在門外等候），追問巴塞羅那副市長關于應對旅游問題的計劃。

????但解決問題的進展相當緩慢，當?shù)卣欠裼姓螞Q心來控制巴塞羅那的重要產業(yè)之一也存有疑問。

????英國倫敦大學學院城市規(guī)劃研究員克萊爾?克羅姆表示：“政府青睞規(guī)模龐大的旅游產業(yè)，尤其是賓館。這關系到巨大的經濟利益，所以很難進行管制。”

????旅游業(yè)在經濟和其他方面促進了巴塞羅那等城市的發(fā)展。但具有諷刺意味的是，大眾旅游首先摧毀的是那些吸引游客的城市魅力。政府的管制是否會來得太晚，以至于無法將巴塞羅那從旅游業(yè)的成功中“拯救”出來，目前尚不明朗。

????制片人奇瓦斯表示：“旅游業(yè)是不可阻擋的。關鍵在于你如何管理它，唯有管理得當，巴塞羅那才不會變成下一個威尼斯?！保ㄘ敻恢形木W）

????譯者：嚴匡正

????審校：任文科

????Last August, Barcelona photographer VicensForner snapped a picture that showed up in newspapers around the globe: In it, a group of young Italian tourists are cavorting through the streets of his seafront neighborhood, Barceloneta. It is mid-afternoon, and the guys are the very image of happy travelers.

????They are also buck-naked.

????For many in working class Barceloneta, the Italian flesh was the last straw. Over the next few evenings, several thousand locals poured onto the humid summer streets to chant and bang pots in protest of tourism overload. Their banners read, “The neighborhood is not for sale.”

????Like many European cities, from Paris to Prague to Venice, Barcelona has bet hard on tourism. The city began to woo tourists with the 1992 Olympics, when it cleaned its beaches, built cruise ship docks, expanded its airport, and rehabilitated its neglected Old City, the Ciutat Vella.

????And the tourists complied: according to government figures, between 1990 and 2013 the number of annual visitors who stayed overnight exploded from 1.7 million to 7.6 million, and the number of hotel rooms grew from 10,265 to 37,069. Today, tourism account for about 14% of the Barcelona’s economy.

????But now many locals are asking, how much tourism is too much?

????In this compact city of 1.6 million residents, the tourist impact is impossible to miss. Today, 79% of the people on La Rambla, the main avenue in the Ciutat Vella, are not from Barcelona; 58% are foreign tourists. Packs of bachelor and bachelorette parties from around Europe stumble through the Ciutat Vella at night, regularly vomiting in the streets and hiring prostitutes.

????And the effects are not limited to the Ciutat Vella. Tourists groups and buses have made the areas around monuments designed by famed Catalan architect AntoniGaudí – most notably Park Güell and the SagradaFamilia, both UNESCO World Heritage sites – virtually unrecognizable as residential neighborhoods.

????In the most touristic barrios, residents are losing their apartments as landlords convert them into short stay rentals, and it is difficult for those who remain to find stores selling anything but cheap beer, souvenirs, and the No. 10 jersey of Barcelona soccer star Lionel Messi.

????It is this loss of local identity, as much as the tourist hordes, that make people like Llum Ventura Gil, a longtime Barceloneta resident who recently left the barrio because of tourism overload, complain that their neighborhoods have been turned into “theme parks.”

????“Barcelona is losing its essence,” she says.

????Barcelona is not alone, and the struggle of European cities has even spawned a subgenre of documentaries bemoaning mass tourism. Barcelona has Bye Bye Barcelona, a film by Venezuelan filmmaker Eduardo Chibás that has received over 300,000 YouTube views; Berlin has Welcome and Goodbye; and Venice has The Venice Syndrome. (One common feature of the genre? The irritating sound of squads of roller bags clicking over cobblestones.)

????The head of Barcelona’s hotel chamber, Jordi Clos, says the city should aim to get to 10 million overnight tourists a year to put it in the “first division” of European cities. But locals question whether mass tourism has already made parts of the city unlivable. Many Barcelonans have fled: between 2006 and 2013, 14,600 people – 12.3% of the population – left Ciutat Vella.

????Pushed by citizen protests, the city and regional government has finally begun to take action. Last year it put a moratorium on new licenses for short-stay apartments and fined Airbnb €30,000 for hawking illegal tourist rentals.

????After the Barceloneta outburst, it sent more police and inspectors into the neighborhood and began to bust landlords who rent out unlicensed tourist units, quickly closing 170 short-term apartments.

????And in late February, some 250 locals packed a public audience (while many more waited outside) to grill one of Barcelona’s deputy mayors on the city’s plans for handling tourism.

????But the going is slow and some question whether the local government has the political will to regulate one of Barcelona’s prime industries.

????“The government very much favors the big tourism industry, particularly hotels,” says Claire Colomb, an urban planning researcher at University College London. “There are huge economic interests at stake that make regulation very difficult.”

????Tourism has enriched cities like Barcelona in financial and other ways. The irony of mass tourism, however, is that it destroys the enchantment that attracted tourists in the first place. It’s unclear if efforts to regulate it will come too late to “save” Barcelona from its success.

????“Tourism is unstoppable,” says the filmmaker Chibás. “It’s how you manage it so it doesn’t become another Venice.”